Souvenir from Shanghai

Old Shanghai postcards from the 1930s are common to find in auctions on the internet. What is much rarer are postcards from before WW1. Here is a fine example from 1907 sent from Old Shanghai to France.

Postcards were invented in the late 19th century, originally one side for the address and one side for the message. The real modern postcard is called “divided back”, still in use today. It was officially adopted in the UK in 1902, France in 1903 and by the Universal Postal Union in 1907. This postcard from 1907 must have been one of the early ones.

The card is stamped 20th jun 07. China only joined the Universal Postal Union in March 1914. Before that, major countries had their own post office in Shanghai, including the German post office on Guangdong Lu. The French post office where this postcard was posted was probably on Rue Montauban (today Sichuan Nan lu / 四川南路) close to Rue du Consulat (Jinling Lu / 金陵路) as seen on the below map of the French Concession in 1900.

As this was posted in a French Post Office, this stamp is also French. It shows “République Française” on the top and “Chine” on the bottom. So this was truly posted at a French post office in China. It is stamped “Shang-hai / Chine”.

This card is multi-views postcard, those were the luxury type of postcards according to Thomas Brandt’s “China in those days'”, the reference book on the topic. The illustration looks like two photos that seems to have pinned on the main card, along with some “Chinese” elements including a triangular yellow flag, pane tree leaves and Chinese lanterns. The caption “Souvenir from Shanghai” is on a banner. Picture left is of Hongkou market, captioned “Central market”. The Central Market or Hong Kou market was located on Woosung Rd / 吴淞路.

Picture right is “Broadway” the main street of the Hongkou side of the concession, that used to be the American concession until 1863, today Damin Lu / 大名路. Although it is captioned souvenir from Shanghai, it is only made of two views from Hong Kou district, so it is more like “Souvenir from Hongkou”. A specific shop is represented on the left side of the picture, “Japanese Art Curios and Leather Goods”. Its title is noticeably clear compared to other shops. Funny enough, on can clearly see postcards on sale in the front windows. The card probably bought in a store just like this one.

The card was sent from Shanghai to maritime military base in Brest, France. The receiver was Jean Gaget, an officer on the French navy ship Dupetit-Thouard, an armored cruiser. Since the card was sent from a friend to a navy soldier, it was probably sent by a mariner on a stopover in Shanghai.

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Meanwhile in India

Old Shanghai crime novels have long been an interest of mine as part of this blog. A number of them are really good, including City of lost souls, 2024 and the inspector Danilov series, recreating Old Shanghai atmosphere, sounds and smell while keeping the historical context. Taking place in modern Shanghai, I have also tremendously enjoyed inspector Chen novels by Qiu Xiaolong, including Red Mandarin dress. Besides Old Shanghai, crime novels are also a good way to explore other places in 1920s and 1930s as well as their connections with Old Shanghai. I read Babylon Berlin, taking in place in 1930s Berlin a few summers ago. For a trip to 1920s India, I turned to Abir Mukherjee’s “A rising man”.

1920s Calcutta and 1920s Shanghai have a lot more in common that I expected. First of all, Calcutta transportation was mainly done by hand pulled rickshaw. The japanese invention that is so often assimilated with Shanghai also made its way to India. Calcutta also had tramway network, similar to Shanghai.

Image Credit: bjornmoerman.blogspot.com

Although large areas of India were largely controlled by Britain throughout the 17th century, the actual control of India by the British government, known as the British Raj, started in 1858. In China, the 1842 Nanjing Treaty opened 5 treaty ports including Shanghai. The world “Bund” in Shanghai Bund is even from an Hindi word band (बंद / بند), showing the influence of the Indian experience on Brits coming to China.

Brits also imported the same club culture and segregation between the white rulers and the local population. The Shanghai Club scene seemed to closely ressemble to Calcutta one. However, in Shanghai this seems to have receded in the 1930s in turn for a more mixed society. This did not seem to have happened in India, with British control making the separation even stronger.

Trade connection was very strong between India and the Chinese treaty ports. Opium was the main export, grown in India and then transported to China in a triangular trade. The main traders were Shanghai British based Jardine & Matheson and Butterfield & Swire. Although they originated from Shanghai, that had strong business links with India. Jewish families originally from Baghdad, also moved to India in the centuries before then on to Shanghai in the late 19th and early 20th century. The Sassoon and Kadoorie families who dominated Shanghai where from Mumbai. The Ezra family, another preeminent Jewish family in Shanghai originated from Calcutta.

Another strong link was through the police and the military. Although the Shanghai police force of the international settlement was not directly a British force, it employed many former military and policemen who had served in the UK or in India. The British forces even brought their Sikh guards that were common in India, to serve as guards and traffic police in Shanghai.

“A rising man” takes place in April 1919, with the  Amritsar Massacre in the background of the story. More than 350 people were killed when the British forces opened fire on a crowd protesting against repressive colonial ruling and the arrest of important Indian leaders. This post WW1 period also saw the emergence of the May 4th 1919 movement in China, that was also protesting against colonial rules in China. The Amristar Massacre is also sadly similar to the 1925 Louza lu police station incident, when Chinese protester confronted the police which fired on the crowd. Just like the Amritsar massacre, the Louza Lu police station incident sparked a much wider nationalistic movement demanding the end of colonial rule.

“A rising man” is a great way to get some exposure to British India and an understanding of the British Raj. It’s also a page turner crime novel with fascinating characters and a twisted story. Calcutta and Shanghai had a lot more in common than I thought at first. This made it an even more enjoyable read.

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The wild side of GuLangYu

For this 9th trip to the beautiful island of Kulangsu (today GuLangYu), we chose to use the ferry to the west side of the island. The Gulangyu Neicuo’ao Wharf (鼓浪屿内厝澳码头) is located where the Foo kien Tanning Co factory used to be. This side of the Island is away from the port of Xiamen and could only accessed on land via the long costal road in the 1930s. As a consequence, it was more secluded and old villas are rarer that on the other side. This whole area is now covered with parks and modern hotels. This makes it a nice place to disembark, but lacks the real Gulangyu feeling. However, one does not have to look too far to find nice surprises.

Behind some more modern constructions, stands one of the rare neo-Confucian style building on Gulangyu. The style is a combination of modernity and traditions. Bottom floors are modern but the top floors and roof look like traditional Chinese buildings. This style was popular in Xiamen in the 1920s and 30s coming with the influence and money from South East Asia. One classical example is the famous Xiamen University, along with the Xiamen Overseas Chinese Museum.

Neo Confucian villa on Gulangyu

This villa was clearly the private estate of a wealthy South East Asian family. At the time of construction, it was probably far away from other houses. From the style I guess it’s from the early 1930s. The top floor is of traditional Fujian style, while the bottom is much more modern. On Gulangyu, the only other one I know is 海天堂, Hi heaven, the largest old villa complex on the island.

The Sino-American School of Gulangyu was located a little further on the same beach road. It was run by missionaries and associated with the Seventh-days Adventists. From the map, I believe the school building is still there (see below), although it has long stopped been a school. It’s mix of modern and classic western is totally different from the house above.

Former Gulangyu Sino-American School building

Our hotel was once again located in a renovated old villa. Overlooking both the West and East side, it was a large park on the top of hill. The main building is mentioned as being from the 1920s, but the style is more like late30s. The entrance on the small street under the tree shade is really enjoyable.

View from the top of the main building clearly shows this must have been a really secluded place in the past, all buildings looking down are modern. In the old time, this could have been forest or even agricultural fields. The location is clearly on a high point of the island as the view goes all over to Xiamen port far away. There is only one house upper in the street.

West side with modern buildings

As the East side is much steeper, no modern building seem to have been added. This side seems abandoned, giving a good feeling of how it used to be when only few old houses stood here. A mysterious old and uninhabited villa stand among the lush trees. This side really feels like far away from the World, a great place to relax and imagine how quite and secluded this side of GuLangYu was before tourists came over.

Although the island has now become a main tourist attraction, there are still spots away from the crowd on this wild side of Gulangyu, while being only a few steps away from the more famous spots.

For more posts about Gulangyu Island, please click here.

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