Elisabeth appartements, route Lafayette

The end of Fuxing Zhong lu, the former Rue Lafayette of the French Concession of Shanghai was a pretty upscale area in Old Shanghai. It is even mentionned in movie “Love and Duty” as the place of living of local wealthy residents.

There are a number of old luxury apartement buildings in the area. I recently managed to sneak into one of them that is usually closed: Elisabeth Apartements on 1327 Route Lafayette (today Fuxing Zhong lu / 复兴中路).

Elisabeth Apartments, 1327 Route Lafayette – Picture Jad Arsan

I had noticed this building since a long time thanks to its unusual shape. It has recently been repainted, giving it a much better look. Built in 1939, Elisabeht Apartments is clearly modernist or late art deco style. It is very distinctive with an angular shape dividing the façade, and round shapes on both sides.Those must be stair cases that point out of the main structure.

Windows of the round structure are forming columns with decoration between the openings.

The building side on Route Lafayette is the main façade, facing North. The other side facing south is much less decorated. It is still noticeable with it corner Crittal-style windows.

I was really lucky as the entrance door was open, so I sneaked in. The inside of the building has been well kept, along the years. It has probably been renovated at some point, but does not seem to have been altered much. The staircase is late art-deco like the outside.

The angled shaped window in the corridor is even more amazing from the inside. The steel frame is also a great exemple of Crittal-style window, that are quite common in Shanghai old buildings.

Original doors have been kept, for most appartements, with flat numbers having a special frame.

I managed to reach the fantastic terrace overlooking the city, with its art deco chimneys… before being chased away by an old guy that was really not happy to find me in his space.

Although Elisabeth apartments has been featured in the number of books, it is less know that its famous neighboor, Blackstone Apartments. Searching the internet, I found that Elisabeth appartements was designed by Russian architect Wladimir Livin-Goldenstaedt (1878–1965). Although much less well known that Laszlo Hudec, Leonard & Vesseyre and Palmer & Turner, he contributed to many art deco buildings in the French Concession. More information about him and his work can be found following this link to Katya Knyazeva’s project : https://sites.google.com/view/russianshanghai/architects/a-l/w-f-livin-goldenstaedt

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Goodbye to Lafayette Cinema

Rue Lafayette (today Fuxing lu, 复兴路)was going through most of the French Concession. The Western part was a high class neighborhood dotted with upscale residences, as seen in movie “Love and duty“. The middle part was more urban and popular. This is where Lafayette Cinema was located.

Built in 1933 following a design from Laszlo Hudec, the Lafayette Cinema is a classic streamline design. It was build of steel and concrete, with a long horizontal front, contrasting with a vertical line that was also used as a beacon for the location. The style is very similar to Laszlo Hudec other streamline design cinema, the Grand Theater on people square, that also opened in 1933. The beacon was visible from far, attracting the attention of passer-bys.

Located on 323 Route Lafayette, the Lafayette Cinema was single screen, with 850 seats. As opposed to the Grand Theater which was one of the top movie houses in Shanghai, the Lafayette Cinema was catering for a more popular audience. It was a second-class theater that was showing movies a few weeks after premiering, for a cheaper price. It was very popular with a Chinese audience. The owner was Mateo Beharas, a French Jewish businessman from Marseille who was mostly known for importing Tissot watches in China. The family also owned the Zekiang Cinema (today Zhejiang Cinema), on 123 Zhejiang lu, that was also designed by Laszlo Hudec and built in 1930.

Lafayette Cinema façade in 2014

Having survived all those years, the Lafayette cinema saw a nice restauration of its façade in the 2000s. It even survived an exit of metro line 10 being built within the building. The building was then turned into a cultural center and the façade was quite similar to the original one.

Unfortunately, it has been renovated again recently and heritage protection was surely not on the scope of the new owner as shown on picture above. Hopefully not too much damage was done on the façade and the overlay can be removed later on.

Lafayette Cinema façade in 2025

It seems that historic official plaques are no protection against bad taste. This reminded me of another ruinovation a few months ago (See post Crime scene on Rue Henry).

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