As spring has come to Shanghai, many people go to the park for a bit of fresh air. One of the city’s favorite is Zhong Shan Park, but many people don’t know it has been there for more than a century, originally under the name of Jessfield Park.
Picture virtualshanghai.com
Originally used as a military field, this plot of land was turned into a park in 1914. The park was named Jessfield Park, it was located at the end of Jessfield road (today Wan hang du lu / 万航渡路). Just like the Bund garden, it was first restricted to foreigners, but became open to all people from 1928.
Jessfield Park, Shanghai, 1932, Ephgrave Collection, Ep01-216 (thanks to Paul French)
The park was of English style with grass, trees and ponds. Regular concerts from the municipal took place in the park. Long before electric amplification, sound of the band was amplified by a bankshell, a special structure designed to amplify sound. Those were very popular in the 1920s and 1930s, before the rise of electric sound amplification. The original can be seen on the top righ corner of above picture. It is still standing today, as shown on picture below. Designed in art deco style, it probably dates from the late 1920s or early 1930s.
Few people noweadays seem realise what the original purpose of this construction was. Next to the main lawn of the park, stands of little pergola surrounded by statues.
This construction is the original that was completed in 1935. It survived turmoils of history very well.
Jessfield park pergola (picture virtual Shanghai)
As the city expanded Westward, houses where built around the park. The tallest apartment building then was West Garden apartments. The building from 1928 was designed by Russian architect Alexander Yaron.
Jessfield park with view over West Garden apartments (Shanghailander collection)
This particular building still stands today, although it is now surrounded by much taller towers.
A recent trip to Shanghai Ecological park along the Suzhou Creek was the opportunity to go and revisit the former Union Brewery factory, a Hudec building that has mostly been forgotten.
The 28.800 sqm area also included a large streamline design building. The right part with the angle is very typical of streamline design, echoing Paris Callot building completed in 1933 (see post Paris streamline building).
Comparing the 1937 British map and today satellite, it is clear that the area was surrounded by factories, in particular cotton mills. All those factories were using the river water and dumping used water in it. The Suzhou creek was not as clean and nice as today and sometimes had weird color due to textile dying process in the factories on its sides.
Above sketch shows that only a few buildings remain. The pond on above photos is probably where the main building once stood.
The above add gives a sense on how the beer factory looked inside. Surely very modern and efficient at the time of construction. It had the production capacity for 1 m crates of beer / year, and claimed to be the largest in Asia.
Union Brewery was one of the leading beer brand in Shanghai, along with its competitor Ewoo beer, owned by Jardien & Matheson (Ewoo / 怡和 in Chinese). One of the large company of Shanghai, Union Brewery was listed on the stock exchange. It made both pilsener and brown beer. Beer was advertised as “good for health for young and old”. It was a modern and fashionable drink.
Union Brewery logo
In the 2000’s, the former United Brewery building became the (now long gone) entertainment complex Pier One, with restaurant Mimosa, bar Monsoon and night club Minx. It appears to be currently unused. It is located at 130 Yichang Road / 宜昌路130号 in Putuo district.
I saw the movie 好东西 / Her story by random on an airplane. It’s only after watching it that I realised that director 邵艺辉 / Shao Yihui also made the movie 爱情神话 / “B for Busy” that I wrote about in 2022.
Both movies have a lot in common. They study the life of a few characters and their relationships over a short period of time. They are very intimate and make me feel like watching some French movies. Both movies are filmed around the streets of Shanghai former French concession. The city, its 1920s and 1930s buildings and its streets lined with pane trees are the main characters of the movies. Some of the indoor scene shows the details and charm of those old buildings, along with the (minor) drawback of living in those.
One of the main difference between both movies is the kind of people involved. B for busy’s characters were mostly talking in Shanghainese dialect, describing the live of a group of local Shanghainese people. This made it very popular in the city when it was out in 2022. Her story is about people who live in Shanghai but are not originally from the city.
Shanghai dialect is notoriously difficult to understand for non Shanghainese. Although they can grasp it after years living in the city, few non native speakers will ever master it. This is a real difference between local Shanghainese people and those that come to live in the city later in their live. when B for busy was the story of Shanghainese people, her story is the tale of non Shanghainese people who made the city their own. In real life, both worlds live next to each other and are intertwined, but they are still somewhat distant even today.
The director clearly is in love with Shanghai and its historical buildings. I was not surprised to find out that she actually lives in Shanghai, probably around those areas. I must admit that I spent a good part of the movie looking for clues about filming locations.
The main story is focused on a single mother and young singer that happen to become neighbours. They both live in the same old lane house and unexpectedly end up being good friend. The movie is the story of this friendship and of their privates lifes. It’s a light romantic comedy with a strong feministic focus. I found it really enjoyable to watch besides the Shanghai angle. Just like B for Busy, it’s great movie about life in Shanghai.
On his January 2026 visit to China, British Prime minister Keir Starmer had a special taste of Old Shanghai. He had the opportunity to buy and taste the Shanghai pastry, butterfly cake or hudiesu / 蝴蝶酥.
Butterfly cakes have been around in Shanghai since the early 20th century, probably introduced by French bakers as they are directly related to French palmiers cakes. They survived through all the changes in China and are still a Shanghai delicacy, as shown in 2010 post “Tasting old Shanghai“.
Effort to promote Shanghai culture by local authorities have changed this local delicacy into a Shanghai icon. Tourists from all over China and the World are now tasting it while visiting Shanghai. With Keir Starmer visit, it gets new attention.
French luxury brand Longchamp has recently made a new special edition Shanghai edition of its pliage bag with a giant 蝴蝶酥 on it.
Another revisited symbol of Shanghai is the iconic former Normandy building by Laszlo Hudec, today name Wukangdalou / 武康大楼 where thousands of people get their photo taken nowadays. I used to live in this area 10 years ago and not many people paid attention then. It was recently the focus of a VR exhibition attracting many tourists (see post Normandy building VR exhibition) in the WuKang Lu tourist information center.
Taking pictures in front of the Normandy building
Both are items of western culture that have been appropriated by Shanghai. They both are true symbol of the mixed culture of the city, the Shanghai style or Haipai / 海派.
As a long term Shanghai resident originally from Burgundy I have been asked and puzzled about Shanghai Cité Bourgogne. Here is the story of this icon of Old Shanghai.
Like many people, I first got to know about Cité Bourgogne when I walked the streets of Shanghai, specifically the corner of Shaanxi lu (Avenue du Roi Albert) and Jian Guo Lu (Route Frelupt). Although not far Avenue Joffre (today Huai Hai lu Zhong lu), the main road of the former French Concession, this area was considered out of the city center in the early 1930s.
Aerial view of central Shanghai in the 1930s
Shanghai is famous of its rows of back alleys lined by brick houses. These alleys are called “Lane” in English, “Li Long” 里弄 in Chinese and “Passage” in French. They form a maze of tranquility and coziness away from the noise and activity of Shanghai streets. Houses lining the alleys are mostly Shi Ku Men 石库门, named after the stone door frame closing the courtyard and facing the alley. Housing style evolved with time and wealth, from tiny houses to small mansions. As seen on above picture, most of old Shanghai used to be covered with lanes, the most common accommodation for Shanghainese in the 1930s, as shown on above picture. Cité Bourgogne is mostly noticeable because of its name.
Cité Bourgogne entrance on Shaanxi Nan Lu
If most Lilong had entrances marking the name of the `lilong in Chinese, this one is really special. Designed in Chinese revival style, it indicates the year of completion of Cité Bourgogne, 1930. Below it is the name “CITÉ BOURGOGNE” and the Chinese name 步高里 / Bù Gāo Lǐ. This is different from the original layout shown below, where only the Chinese name was written. The (fake) yellow stone and new indication was probably more recently, during a renovation. The good thing is that it attracts attention.
Cité Bourgogne originale façade
The lilong or lane in English has 78 houses, each of which were originally occupied by one family. As the house were quite large, it was clearly an upmarket residence. The houses were later subdivided and about 450 families now live in Cité Bourgogne. The location at the corner of Avenue du Roy Albert (today Shaanxi Nan lu / 陕西南路）and Route Frelupt (Jianguo Xi Lu / 建国西路) was on the edge of the urban area of the former French Concession, away from the city center. On the other side of Route Frelupt (Jianguo Xi Lu / 建国西路) was located the French shooting range, where Luwan stadium now stands. At that time, it was the South edge of the built area of the French Concession. A block further down was the Zhoajiabang creek, 肇嘉浜, the administrative border of the French Concession.
Cité Bourgogne Entrance on Jiang Guo Xi Lu
Cité Bourgogne was the property of real estate developper “Foncière et Immobilière de Chine” or FONCIM. This company was the real estate arm of ISS, an insurance company and one of the major French company in Shanghai then. It is mostly famous for its Art Deco building designed by LVK, including the Dauphiné, the Gascogne and many more. However, FONCIM also had a number of lilong including Cité Bourgogne, and 建业里 / Jian Ye Li that is now the Capella Hotel further on Jian Guo Xi Lu.
Although FONCIM used LVK for many of its buildings, it is not clear that they used them for Cité Bourgogne. It was clearly not the case for its other lilongs. Cité Bourgogne modern Shikumen style could fit LVK style, but the project is not mentioned in the 1934 14th July double page ad in Le Journal de Shanghai, showcasing the work of the firm over the period. I have seen secondary sources mentioning LVK as the designer, but no proof so far.
This lilong differs from many other with its archway towering the alleys, making is really memorable.
Archways of Cité Bourgogne
FONCIM had the habit of naming its buildings after French regions. Its buildings were named Le Béarn, le Dauphin´´e, Le Normandie, Le Picardie, Le Gascogne. Thus us is not surprising to have an another property called Cité Bourgogne.
Cité Bourgogne with Aubert de Villaine.
I could not find a real link with the actual region of Bourgogne in France. nor with its wine that were sold in Shanghai at the time. However, since the name is so visible, people from Burgundy regularly ask about a possible link with the region. I even had the privilege to take the most famous Burgundy winemaker, Mr Aubert de Villaine, owner of the Word famous Romanée-Conti, for a tour to Cité Bourgogne. As a true Burgundian, I also made some research about Burgundy wines in Old Shanghai a few years ago, but not link came out between Cité Bourgogne and Bourgogne wine either.
One of the reference book about Shanghai history French book “Histoire de la Concession Française de Changhai” by Charles Maybon & Jean Fredet. I recently got an original copy during my last trip to France.
Although written in Shanghai, the book was published in Paris in 1929 by Paris publishing house Plon. It covers the history of the French Concession of Shanghai from its origin in 1848 and even before, until 1875. The book is highly detailed and includes many maps of the early French Concession, at a time it was only located around (French) Bund. Other books were planned but was never published as Charles Maybon passed away before publication of this one.
It also includes a number of photographs from the late 19th century, that are very rare. It shows the fast development of the city as none of the Bund building of the time have survived until today.
French Bund 1868
Another interesting point is the map of the early French Concession. The area then was only a small piece of land between the Chinese city and the early International Settlement. The French Consulate was not even on the river (more about this period in post “former Shanghai French Consulate“).
French Concession (1851 – 1853)
Like most books of that period, it was sold uncut. Large sheets of printed paper were folded into a book, then a binder would cut the edges as part of the biding process. Alternatively, the reader could cut the sheets while reading, showing how far he or she went in reading the book.
Uncut book
I was fortunate to get an uncut copy, meaning that it was never read before. As it was in great condition, I assume this copy has been sitting of the owner’s bookshelf for decades. As I want to keep it in original stage, I will not cut it either. Fortunately, a scanned copy of the book is available as a download from the site of the French National Library, which is also fully searchable. It is not as charming as my old copy but much more effective for research purposes. Follow this link to get it: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k33623471#
There are many churches in Shanghai, as both concessions were hosting many christians religious people. Catholics was mostly supported by the French, with the Jesuits area of Xu Jia Hui being next to the former French concession. The international settlement was supporting the Church of England, with a cathedral behind the Bund. Many protestant missionaries were using Shanghai as a base to convert people all over China, and they also built Churches in Shanghai. I recently attended a Christian wedding at Fitch Memorial Church in Hong Kou district.
Fitch Memorial Church is the only church in Shanghai to be designed in the Neo Confucian style, also called Republican style. This combines the exterior of the traditional Chinese building, although built in concrete not wood, with the inside of a modern building.
Fitch Memorial Chirch was completed in 1928. This is also the time when the whole Hongkou district was developing. The architect was Yang Xiulu / 楊錫鏐 which firm also built the Paramount Ball Room and the Nanjing Hotel on Guizhou lu. It also designed the YMCA building in Xizhang Road, that is of the same style than the Fitch Memorial Church.
The outside is rich with details.
Although there are many churches in Shanghai, it is still rare to have wedding in an actual church. The couple are both member of this church, creating a really special atmosphere. It felt a bit like in a movie.
The church has two full worship floors on the top of each other, which is rather rare. I guess this was planned to handle more ceremonies at the same time. The wedding was on the upper floor, but I could also get a view on the lower one.
Lower floorUpper floor
The church has been through a lot over history, including as a shelter for refugees during the 1932 Japanese attack and being used as an hospital during cultural revolution. It was refurbished in the 1990s with a lot of original details having been preserved including stained glasses below.
Fitch Memorial Church was name after Reverend George Field Fitch (1845-1923). Arriving in China in 1870, he become an important leader of the Presbyterian Mission Press. His work is credited with revolutionizing China’s printing industry and establishing Shanghai as a key publishing hub in Asia.
The Fitch Memorial Church is located at 59 Duolun Lu in Hongkou district.
Looking for Old Shanghai style places, I ended up by invitation in Old Shanghai themed restaurant 人和館 / Renheguan.
Although it is located in a modern building (and not in an old house unfortunately), the owner has managed to recreate a great old Shanghai atmosphere. I went on a day when it was packed, and the whole place was bustling and Shanghainese language was all over the place… as it should be.
The restaurant is located on Zhao Jia Bang Lu, formerly the Zhaojia creek / 肇嘉浜, that used to be the separation between the French Concession and the South part of the Chinese city, called 南市. Old houses are located in the area, that was quite upscale in the 1930s so it’s a good place from a historical point of view.
Since the restaurant has 1 start Michelin, the food was excellent, well executed and delicious. This really felt like a short trip to Old Shanghai, reminding me of the now closed Xian Qiang Fang.
人和館 / Renheguan can be found at 407 Zhaojiabang Road / 肇嘉浜路407号.
French people love “associations” or clubs around a specific topic. Incorporating a non-profit corporation (“association loi 1901” in French) is easy to create a legal framework for a sport club, a cultural society or a charity. As soon as a number of French people gather together, they form an “association”.
The oldest one representing French people abroad is UFE (Union des Français de l’étranger), founded in Paris in 1927. It was recreated in Shanghai around 2002. Its role is mostly to foster the social life of French people, organizing parties, talks and social events. I did not find traces of a representation in Old Shanghai, but maybe there was. However French people had many places to gather, such as the high end Cercle Sportif Français, and the more affordable Cercle Français.
A revival of those clubs was the Cercle Francophone de Shanghai (1991), now renamed as Shanghai Accueil. Another noticeable one is Solidarité Shanghai, which cares for French people in distress in Shanghai. I am sure something like that existed in Old Shanghai, at least informally, but I did not find traces either.
Along those national associations, there are also many that gather French people from a particular region of France. Bretons, Alsatians, Marseille and Lyon people are probably the biggest ones along with smaller ones like the ones of people from Bourgogne-Franche Comté, that I founded. I was amazed to find out that those kind of associations existed in Old Shanghai, as shown in below article from “Le Journal de Shanghai” 21st March 1928.
Here is a translation of the article: “By the way… In Shanghai, we have a Consul General of Auvergne and a Consul General of Brittany. I’m not even entirely sure that we don’t have, among the representatives of France’s friends and allies, a minister plenipotentiary from Provence and an ambassador from Champagne. In any case, there is probably no other place in the world where French regionalism takes on such a distinctly separatist character as it does here.”
As the article shows, French people in modern Shanghai have only restarted what already existed in Old Shanghai. Funny enough I have recently been appointed as an ambassador for the city of Dijon, contributing to this even more. I did not find any traces of a Burgundian association in Old Shanghai, but the region was well represented by its wines (see post “Burgundy wines in Old Shanghai“) as it still is today.
I also wrote several articles about the Breton association in Shanghai Ar Mor founded in 1935, see post “Breton association in Old Shanghai“. The search still continues for the other associations mentionned above.
France is a centralized country and not a federation like Germany or Italy. Centralization and suppression of regional identity in France was particularly strong in the 19th and first half of the 20th century. Regional languages were suppressed, particularly after the introduction of free compulsory education in the late 19th century. It is then quite impressive to see this kind of regionalism in Old Shanghai, probably amplified by the distance with the home country.
Old Shanghai postcards from the 1930s are common to find in auctions on the internet. What is much rarer are postcards from before WW1. Here is a fine example from 1907 sent from Old Shanghai to France.
Postcards were invented in the late 19th century, originally one side for the address and one side for the message. The real modern postcard is called “divided back”, still in use today. It was officially adopted in the UK in 1902, France in 1903 and by the Universal Postal Union in 1907. This postcard from 1907 must have been one of the early ones.
The card is stamped 20th jun 07. China only joined the Universal Postal Union in March 1914. Before that, major countries had their own post office in Shanghai, including the German post office on Guangdong Lu. The French post office where this postcard was posted was probably on Rue Montauban (today Sichuan Nan lu / 四川南路) close to Rue du Consulat (Jinling Lu / 金陵路) as seen on the below map of the French Concession in 1900.
As this was posted in a French Post Office, this stamp is also French. It shows “République Française” on the top and “Chine” on the bottom. So this was truly posted at a French post office in China. It is stamped “Shang-hai / Chine”.
This card is multi-views postcard, those were the luxury type of postcards according to Thomas Brandt’s “China in those days'”, the reference book on the topic. The illustration looks like two photos that seems to have pinned on the main card, along with some “Chinese” elements including a triangular yellow flag, pane tree leaves and Chinese lanterns. The caption “Souvenir from Shanghai” is on a banner. Picture left is of Hongkou market, captioned “Central market”. The Central Market or Hong Kou market was located on Woosung Rd / 吴淞路.
Picture right is “Broadway” the main street of the Hongkou side of the concession, that used to be the American concession until 1863, today Damin Lu / 大名路. Although it is captioned souvenir from Shanghai, it is only made of two views from Hong Kou district, so it is more like “Souvenir from Hongkou”. A specific shop is represented on the left side of the picture, “Japanese Art Curios and Leather Goods”. Its title is noticeably clear compared to other shops. Funny enough, on can clearly see postcards on sale in the front windows. The card probably bought in a store just like this one.
The card was sent from Shanghai to maritime military base in Brest, France. The receiver was Jean Gaget, an officer on the French navy ship Dupetit-Thouard, an armored cruiser. Since the card was sent from a friend to a navy soldier, it was probably sent by a mariner on a stopover in Shanghai.
