Shanghailander

Saint John University

As the largest metropolis of China, Shanghai was the focus of development of modernity in China, including the development of Universities. Hidden behind Zhong Shang Park (the former Jessfield Park), in a curve of the Suzhou creek stands the old Saint John University, which used to be the most prestigious University in China. Today’s East China Institute of Politics and Law has kept most original buildings from the old times and is still a nice place for a short visit. The best way to access it is probably to walk through the park to reach its back entrance, although it is also possible to follow the Suzhou Creek.

Saint John University was created in September 1879, it was created and supported by the American Anglican Church. The picture left is from 1907, showing one of the reading room. Religion had a strong importance in the teaching, and the university was lead for decades by clergyman Dr F.L. Hawks Pott who also wrote “a short history of Shanghai“. Under his governance, Saint John College became the leading University. Teaching was in English, a lot of faculty was foreign and modern education methods as well as sport took a great place. The University was modeled after the American University system and graduate students could be join American Universities for their post graduate studies, of few of them actually going to Harvard or Yale. Saint John University also formed the elite of China’s societies with many of them becoming high civil servants or joining Chinese and international companies after graduation.

Architecture style of the university buildings have mostly been a mix of Chinese and western. They were actually often western buildings with a Chinese roof and decoration, similar to what was latter called Republican Architecture. As the University expanded, more buildings were created following the style of the time. The main building is much more of western style, quite similar to some of the buildings that were originally on the Bund, and the clock tower has been added later. Si Meng Hall near the River is also of a similar style, with all the original verandas having closed like in most old building in Shanghai. One the of really interesting one is on the right side towards the entrance. The style is clearly much later, probably late 1920’s early 1930’s as it is very similar to Jiangwan Shanghai Civic Center building. The founding stone of the Univeristy (marked 1879, picture left) is still visible. It seems to have been broken in pieces and put toghether later, probably during cultural revolution time.

Detached from the city and protected from noise by the park and the river, the campus feels like an oasis of quiet just a few minutes from busy ZhongShang Park Cross road, probably the most charming university of Shanghai.

Boonna Cafe, Huai Hai Lu – 5 years of blogging

The first post in Shanghailander about Boonna Cafe was written about 5 years ago, being on the very first posts on the this blog. The current one is like marking the 5th anniversary of Shanghailander, written in the lastet Boonna incarnation. The original post was about this particular cafe, but also about the lack of similar places at that time. Boonna Cafe, along with Vienna Cafe and a very few others were a refuge from both the constant activity of the city and the ever growing empire of global brands such as Starbucks. The original Boonna Cafe on Xin Le lu has long beeing chased out by rent increase and the abundance of clothes shops on the former Rue Paul Henry. Fortunately, it has recreated itself a few time, the last incarnation being the South part of the former Avenue Joffre (today’s HuaiHai Lu). The current Boonna Cafe still has the same characteristics as its ancestor, being located in an old Shanghai house, red inside walls, hanging photographs and plain simple design although it is about twice as large. The main change from my 5 years old post is probably the crowd.

2006 central Shanghai was still burgeoning, 2011 Shanghai is running full speed. Old Boonna’s consumers were often foreigners, trying to find a bit of home and comfort. Today’s Boonna’s consumers are mostly the young educated 20 something Shanghainese crowd. The cafe culture of Shanghai has come back with a vengeance and pioneers like Boona are not the only kid in town anymore. Besides the ubiquitous Starbucks coffee giants Costa has joined the game, followed by numerous other locals. Xin Tian Di is not the only mixed food, bar and retail area, as Tian Zi Fang as developed along with a few others. Opening of retail to foreigners and waves of oversease chinese and students coming back have created a new face for Shanghai shops and bars / restaurants. The local joint good for breakfast, lunch and any coffee and web browsing stop in the middle is not a rarity anymore, but rapidly becoming the norm in central Shanghai. The 2010 expo has not only left its traces to the city landscape, but also to the city’s culture bringing the world to the city as well as more foreign exposure. Another profound change is that buying power has increased enormously and the younger generation often has disposable income to spend, often in shopping and food.

Shanghai has not only moved on in terms of modernity, it has also got much more in touch with its past. Shanghai history was mostly the interest of scholars and a few crazy foreigners when this blog started. Multiple movies were since made taking place in old Shanghai (such as Tai Tang Kou, Shanghai) as well as TV series (such as Shanghai Shanghai). Novels from the period have been republished and are now really popular (see “Love in a fallen city” post). At the same time, numerous books about Shanghai history have been published both by foreigners who actually lived in the city (like Liliane Willens’ stateless in Shanghai) and local people showing an interest. Although I don’t really read it, I know numerous novels in Chinese have been published. The cherry on the cake being that copies of 1930’s sidecar have become cool thanks to a series of advertising for a chewing gum brand (view it on youtube). All of is has recreated a glamorous image of Old Shanghai, hopefully helping to preserve its remains (See post “Somebody finally got it”).

Shanghai in the last 5 years has deeply changed. It has become modern, more cool, more international and closer to its past. Although transforming, it is also becoming more like what the old Shanghai used to be, a city at the confluence of the East and the West, the Chinese door for the West, one of the center of the XXIst century. Shanghai is definitely becoming one of the world cities.

Robert Nield, The China Coast

With the summer coming and a little less traveling, I finally have to actually read the books I picked up during the Shanghai Literary Festival in last March. One of the most interesting event was the literary lunch with Robert Nield. As with all Old Shanghai related event, it attracted the usual crowd of Shanghai history enthusiasts and authors. I always enjoy is these events as they take me away from business questions and activities to get on a time travel for a few hours. The presentation was excellent as well as lunch and I was looking forward to read the actual book.

Robert Nield’s approach is quite similar to mine. He is not a cleric or a professional historian but a retired businessman who got interested in the topic of Asia colonial history. Readers are assumed to know little about the topic and that makes the book a very easy read. At the same time, the author has done in-depth research that make it really credible from an historical point of view. The aim of the author is to visit every single treaty ports in China, but the current book focuses on history of the trade on the China Coast before creation of the treaty ports, as well as Hong Kong and the 5 original ports (Canton, Xiamen, Fuzhou, Ningbo and Shanghai).

The first part of the book is focused on the pre-treaty port period, which has been much less studied than later treaty ports time, making the book even more interesting. Since Robert Nield is a business man, his point of view is oriented toward an economic view of history that is truly relevant to this case. The same period was studied from a different angle in Foreign Mud by Maurice Collis. However, The China Coast starts from a much earlier period describing the unsuccessful attempts from Portuguese, Spaniards, Dutch and British to be recognised as trading partner by China. Products such as tea, silk and porcelain (also called China!) were in the highest demand in Europe. Trade had been going on between Europe and China for centuries and traders were in the center of the political process that led to the Opium Wars and the opening of Treaty ports. Through is position in Hong Kong, Robert Nield also had access to archives of the early trading companies and banks that were also part of the colonial process, including HSBC, Jardine & Matheson and Butterfield & Swire giving us information and illustration that was previously very difficult to find.

The second part of the book is focused on the history of the treaty port, that received each a chapter of equal length. This leaves very little space for well documented places such as Shanghai and Hong Kong, but the challenge was to find enough information about the other ports, in particular Foochow (today Fuzhou) and Ningbo. A lot of time and effort has been spent to find information about these smaller ports that never really reached a large size. Fuzhou was a place for shipping tea, but did not really succeed in it for a long time. Ningbo specialized in religious evangelists as trade was also not the best due to the competition of Shanghai and better places like Hangzhou. One of the most interesting part of the book is surely about Xiamen and Kulangsoo (Gu Lan Yu island today). Surprisingly, Kulangsoo international settlement and Xiamen British Concession were too separate entities. Trade in Xiamen was never really great due to the impoverished population of the hinterland but the scenery and location are some of the best in China and foreigners there enjoyed a great life. Ultimately, the port specialised in shipping people as Chinese coolies became in high demand after the ban of slavery in Africa, paving the way for the Chinese diaspora in Malaysia, Australia and many other locations.

Best view of the French Bund

I rarely write about Pudong in this blog, as I focus on a time when Pudong was mostly warehouses and rice fields. Working in financial consulting, I often go to Lu Jia Zui financial district. During a recent meeting, I took the below picture through the office window, probably one of the best view of the French Bund.

Concessions were first opened for trade, and access to the River was of prime importance. British arriving first in 1842, they took the best spot, the mouth of the Huangpu River and the Suzhou Creek. Americans arriving second in 1844, took what is now called the North Bund, on the other side of the Suzhou Creek. The British and American concessions were later merged to become the International Settlement. French arriving last in 1848, they could only take a small part between the British Settlement and the Chinese city (see map below). As written in a past post, the border between both concession was the Yang Jing Bang river, that was later transformed into today’s Yannan lu. Yannan lu reaches the Bund at the above red line, with the Guslav tower on the Bund being inside the French Concession. Buildings on the French Bund have been less preserved than on the British Bund, but there are still interesting pieces.

#1 is the entrance to the “Rue du Consulat”, today JingLing lu. The street was the main spot of the early French Concession, much earlier than later Avenue Joffre (today Huai Hai lu). Just like the British Consulate, the French Consulate was located on the Bund, at the corner of the Rue du Consulat and the French Bund. Picture left is a late 19th century view of Rue du Consulat, with a French Consulate building on the right side. The building was destroyed in the 1980’s to create a ugly building that has since been replaced by an art deco tower.

On the right side, is located the former headquarters of the “Messageries Maritimes“. The streamline building by Swiss firm Minutti was built in the mid thirties, showing to the World the importance of the French Lines. On the left side, there is now a fake beaux-arts style tower occupied by the Shanghai branch of Taipei’s boutique hotel Les Suites. The building behind is an old office building that was occupied during the 1930’s by the “Journal de Shanghai”, the French paper published in the city. Further on the street is located Saint-Josef Church, the original French cathedral (built years before Xu Jia Hui St Ignacius Cathedral), as well as the Hotel des Colonies. Further down is the new office building occupied by ICBC. From below picture, it must have taken the space of another large building.

#2 is the former building of the trading house “Butterfield & Swire”, or Taikoo in Chinese on Route Colbert. One of the oldest trading house in Shanghai, Butterfield & Swire was one of the main ones in Shanghai. Although they were a British firm, there office was established in the French Concession, as well as the Swire House, home of Lord Swire (today’s Xin Guo Hotel). Taikoo firm (the name in Chinese), is now famous for the sugar that it imports and distributes in China and its ownership of airline Cathay Pacific. The Butterfield and Swire Building is visible on the very left side of above picture, it has been renovated and his now known as Bund 22.

The Concubine of Shanghai

We continue travelling through Old Shanghai based contemporary literature with one of the airport bookstores favorite, Hong Ying, The Concubine of Shanghai. To be honest, Hong Ying “K: The Art of Love” is probably more famous, but the title of this one was the attraction point. Although the book have been acclaimed and makes an excellent read, I have mixed feelings about it.

The original Chinese title was “上海王”, translating as “Shanghai Lord” that is probably more accurate, though surely less alluring from a marketing point of view. The main character is Cassia, a sixteen years old girl from Pudong sold to Madame Emerald, the owner of a Puxi high-class brothel located in the Chinese city, on the hedge of the French Concession. Too tall, with too big feet and curves for the fashion of the time, the girl is destined to remain a servant, when others become popular sing song girls. Her fate changes when she become the favorite girl of the leader of one of the main Shanghai secret societies. After his tragic death, Cassia falls back into poverty. She only comes back to Shanghai a few years later, leading a local opera band and rise to stardom in Shanghai. She is still involved with the underworld and manage through these connections to be one of its informal leaders.

The story of Cassia is the one of a lady struggling through life to rise to the top through her intelligence, hard work and persistence. Asia’s women are too often seen as submissive, but Cassia is a true Shanghai lady impersonating the legendary spirit and reputation of the city’s women. Although Cassia’s life in set in the 1930’s, her story and attitude reminds me of several women friend who have managed to reach excellent business positions through hard work business sense. The book is not only about business and social achievement, but also about love and sexuality. Although modest by western standard, erotic scenes are numerous in the book and Cassia’s enjoyment of sex is very clear. In a country where sex was a taboo for many centuries, it must have been quite shocking for many readers. The book is really good literature, unfortunately research on real Shanghai history is seriously lacking.

Border Chinese City with French Concession

First of all, the main location of book first part is a brothel located on the border line between the Chinese city and the French Concession. There is even a scene where characters entering from the Chinese city are able to escape through the back door to the French concession. Unfortunately, at that time the real Shanghai Chinese city was surrounded by the City Wall and moated (see picture left). This was all replaced later by a large Boulevard (today Ren Min lu and Zhong Hua lu). In a similar way, a large part takes place in a hotel located next to the Garden Bridge (or WaiBaiDu Chao) that could be the Astor House hotel. The name of the hotel is surely not the right one, and at the contrary to the book state this hotel was surely not owned or run by Chinese at that time.
Some of the events in the book are also clearly picked from real people life. For example, Cassia’s poverty is caused by a parent’s death and when she has become a star she cause back to her Pudong’s origin, creating a monument for her long deceased parents and giving out charity to build a children’s school. This is strongly inspired by part of Du Yue Sheng’s life, who actually became the real Lord of Shanghai’s underworld. In another chapter, 1926 is described as the 5th year of the Republic… when it was clearly the 15th (this may be a translation mistake).

Finally, there is very little about real Old Shanghai feeling in the book. Western Old Shanghai novels like “The Master of Rain” or “Last seen in Shanghai” tend to focus on historical details while missing filling and real people’s life. At the contrary “The Concubine of Shanghai” is high on feelings and emotion, but historical research seems to have been done in 10 minutes, reading a two page leaflet for a local tour company. It is really a pity that attention to actual details (including in the translation) has been lacking so much, as it destroys most of its credit as a historical novel.

China Pearl

Finding about China Pearl was purely random but the story behind it is definitely worth a post. Looking for pictures about Old Shanghai on the internet, I found the picture left of Shanghai Wai Bai Du Qao (or Garden Bridge) with an old motorbike crossing it. I have long been convinced that sidecars were used in Old Shanghai, long before the Chang Jiang motorbikes appeared thus discovering this picture seemed to be the missing link. Unfortunately, the picture turned out to be a fake after examination. Traffic in Old Shanghai was driving on the left side of the road and this sidecar is definitely designed for the right-side driving of today’s Shanghai. Still, the artwork was interesting enough for me to search more information about this picture. This is how I ran into Paul Draken story.

Paul Draken dancing in the Cercle Sportif Francais

Paul Draken was a mixed child, half British and half Chinese born in Beijing in 1907. His father was Sir James Draken who led the British troop coming into Beijing to free the foreign diplomats after the 55 days of siege in the legations during the Boxer war. Growing up in early 20th century China, he managed to cross the path of Empress Dowager CiXi, then encountering revolutionary leader and first president of China Sun Zhong Shan. He even met with Russian Imperial family before the Russian Revolution. Paul Draken was living in Beijing, just at the time of the Mukden incident, while becoming an airplane pilot. Later on, he started an airline in Shanghai, flying one of the China clippers, those enormous hydroplanes of the time, called the China Pearl. His time in Shanghai was also marked by love affair with White Russian countess Anastasia as well as pursuit with Japanese spies. As he managed to flee the Japanese invasion just in time, he took part of the Flying Tigers fighting China enemy in the air. Escaping the Concession invasions in December 1941, he managed to rally North Africa to joined allied forces fighting general Rommel in the North African desert war. Paul Draken was also a hero of D-Day landing in Normandy. Paul Draken’s incredible story was behind most historical events in the first half of the 20th century.

As you probably already realized, Paul Draken never actually existed. He is the central character of e-novel China Pearl by Taiwanese author Crayon Yao. China Pearl is available at: http://www.yaox.com/draken/cover.html. Unfortunately it is only available in Chinese, so most reader will have difficulties with it. The author used lots of research, good narrative and a number of photoshoped pictures like the ones above. The pictures really make the story believable and can be viewed at: http://www.yaox.com/draken/photos1.html. China Pearl is like an Asian Indiana Jones novel with a touch of Forest Gump, taking place mostly in China. It must have attracted quite a hype as numerous blog articles have been written about it, like yblog.org/archive/index.php/5742 . I was surely not the only one to be confused by the e-novel and the pictures, as many readers in Taiwan got fiction and reality mixed up as shown in this article: http://www.chinapost.com.tw/taiwan/national/national-news/2011/02/28/292761/Fictional-novel.htm. Clearly an inspiration for my own Old China novel that has been brewing for years.

Shanghai Aerotropolis

It has been a few weeks since I wrote the last Shanghailander.net post, a delay very much caused by the number of Air Miles I flew in the last weeks. Taking me away from my favorite city and its history, I found myself confronted with its future. This post about New Shanghai if not future Shanghai.

“Aerotropolis, the way we’ll live next” is a book I picked in Bangkok airport a few weeks ago and reading it has been fascinating since. My interest in it surely resonates with my background in transport studies (many years ago now) as well as my recent peak in airmiles flown. The basic theory of John D. Kasarda (the wisdom behind the book) is that cities are drawn around airports because of the need of speed and connectivity. Greg Lindsay (who actually wrote the book) uses many examples of such cities that have been built (mostly in the USA) or are being built (mostly in Asia) around airports.

The aerotropolis seems to be the answer to every problem from global climate change (even demonstrating that flying food around the World is more eco-friendly than growing it locally), to over population (as everybody will be so happy to live in these new mecca of speed and efficiency). Similarly, air transport will fuel the economy of the instant age, as internet purchase rapidly inflate the need for small parcels delivered worldwide as fast as possible. In a same way, facebook and social network will push people to connect face-to-face, using airplanes to bring the gap between continents. The pair finds direct application of their theory in Asia, for example in Singapore that is labelled as the typical aerotropolis. They also find in Bangkok success for passenger traffic, i.e. tourists. At the same time, its failure to create the surrounding aerotropolis environment is also an example of how not to create an aerotropolis from Kasarda’s point of view.

The nearest example to us is surely the new Hong Qiao area. Creating the Hong Qiao 2 terminal, combined with highspeed railway links and the land clearing miles around was definitely inspired by Kasarda’s theories. Just seeing the change in what used to be Puxi’s back waters transformed into the new hot development area is fascinating. Logistics companies, manufacturing and office complexes are all moving Westwards, attracted by this new magnet of competitiveness. Hotels, serviced apartments and residential areas are sure to follow, as all these people will need accommodation short or long term. In that sense, the aerotropolis is just working the way Kasarda predicted it. People are attracted by the airport and its economic opportunities… but whether it is really where people want to live is a different story. This probably the limit to the theory (see The Guardian review of the same book) as living in the aerotropolis seems more like living in Fritz Lang’s Metropolis than in new found paradise.

This is all good for Old Shanghai anyway. As the pressure to create new offices and residential real estate moves form the city center to the peripheral areas, it is likely that the destruction of our beloved city will slow down. Once money made, the winners of this new game will surely move to nicer areas like the Bund or the old French Concession. By contributing to their gentrification, they will hopefully want to protect their new found little paradise and help keeping part of Old Shanghai intact.

Shanghai car show

1935 Renault Cabriolet — 1935 Renault Viva Grand Sport Convertible

The 2011 Shanghai car show that recently closed its doors has become one of the most important car event in the world. Car brands bring their new flagship models to show them to China and the world with a deluge of modernity, design and high tech under the roof of Pudong’s Shanghai Exhibition Center. The show could seem as distant from Old Shanghai as possible, but some links can still be found. Some of the car makers, willing to bring history with them brought vintage cars, just like some of the ones that drove the streets of Old Shanghai.

One of the most beautiful old car on show was the 1935 Renault Viva Grand Sport convertible. Launched in 1934 at the Paris auto show, the car won the “Grand Prix de la Baule” in the same year. The car really has an art deco and streamline style, typical of the period. I am not sure that any of those actually made it to Old Shanghai but it would have been a stylish drive on Avenue Joffre, along with the Buicks, Chryslers, British and American cars that were imported in high numbers. Delage, a now extinct luxury car brand made it to Old Shanghai with a few car being actually imported.

Further on in the car show, another French car brand was exhibiting a classic old French car, the Citroen Traction Avant. The car was a massive technological and commercial success. As the name in French suggests it was the first car with front wheel drive, a technological breakthrough at the time. Some were probably imported in Shanghai as they were used as the French official car in the late 1930’s. This also appears in most films about WWII in France, as it really became a symbol of this period. I actually rode in one of those vintage cars in Dalat, Vietnam where the local Sofitel keeps one running for tourist (I think there is the same service available in Hanoi as well). Driving this 60 years old lady was around colonial villas was like a time travel. It would be fantastic to have the same in Shanghai, but as far as I know there is no way such a old car can be registered here. The nearest thing is probably riding a Changjiang sidecar, copied from 1930’s BMW R71 as used for tours from Shanghai Sideways.

Both brands used old cars to show there history, but one of them seem to tried and make a link to Shanghai. This could have been really interesting in term of local branding as the 1930’s is becoming really popular with Shanghainese (see post “Somebody finally got it” and “Brands of Old Shanghai” for more information). The only brand that used the local marketing was Citroen with a full display and a vintage 1931 vehicle from the “Croisiere Jaune” (the yellow journey). Citroen cars drove from Beyrouth to Beijing going over the himalayan mountains and Tashkurgan pass going to XinJiang. I think using the trip as a link between Citroen and China was very smart and a great marketing tool. Not as flashy as the concept cars, but Chinese visitors who looked at the display were really interested.

Reading “The Shanghailander”

The word “Shanghailander” was used to for the foreigners living in Old Shanghai. As written in the “Why is this blog called Shanghailander.net” page, the Shanghailanders were the foreigners that had already spent more than a year (and a bit) in the city. I had heard these stories and read them in books about Old Shanghai but I had never seen the actual word written during that time… until I bought the June 1937 of “The Shanghailander”.

Just like many of the English magazines in today’s Shanghai, “The Shanghailander” was a monthly guide to Shanghai, “A monthly magazine devoted to interpreting Shanghai and China to vistors – and residents”. This issue of June 1937 is Volume V, No 6 thus I guess publication started in January 1932. This must have been one of the last issues as the attack on Shanghai by the Japanese army from August 1937 and the fierce battle of Shanghai that followed saw many foreign residents start fleeing away and surely drastically reduced tourism to the city.

There is practically no information about this magazine on the internet, this copy must be one of the few survivors. It was published by Carl Crow’s company, who introduced advertising in China and whose biography was written by Paul French. The magazine was surely a good support for selling Carl Crow’s books as the recommended reading list includes 2 (out of 12) of his books (“Handbook for China” and “Chekiang Highways”) as well as the full back cover as an advertising for 400 million customers, his most famous book.

The magazine content is very similar to today’s equivalents including a feature article, business directory, facts about Shanghai and a map of the city center. The last page is devoted to “Places to see in China”, listing Suzhou, Hangzhou, Nanjing and Beijing. The only unusual part is the almanac, listing events related to Shanghai that happened on the same day years before as the genre is gone out of fashion long ago

Just like today about half the magazine is advertising, for the international and famous local brands including famous hotels of the time, Astor House and Palace Hotel (now Swatch Peace hotel) from the HongKong & Shanghai hotel company (today’s owner of Peninsula), Broadway Mansions Hotel and Park Hotel. Entertainment places like the Canidrome (the gone flower market between Maoming Lu and Shaanxi lu) and the Hai-Alai at the auditorium on corner of Avenue Joffre (today Huai Hai Lu) and Avenue du Roi Albert (today Shaanxi Nan Lu). Drinks were also advertised such as Ewo beer and White Horse whisky, both brands of Jardine, Matheson and Co, as well as Martell Brandy and Sandeman’s Port, distributed by Gande, Prince Ltd.

Items necessary for the travelers of the time were also advertised including “Grays Yellow Lantern Shops, Specialists in the finest linen, lingerie, pyjamas, novelty with shops in the Astor House hotel and the Cathay hotel Lobby. Finally, another provider of travelling accessories was Macbeth Gray and Co, 142 Nanking Road (today PENGJIE CLOTHING CO. BRANCH N2 on 142 Nanjing Dong Lu), supplying “panama hats, English straw boaters, American Washing ties, Tropical helmets and English sport sweaters”… though I don’t think they supply these article anymore.