New Shanghai Archives - Shanghailander

Bretons association in Old Shanghai

Although they were at most 1500 French people in Shanghai in the 1920s and 1930s, they were keen on getting together in regional groups. This was made clear in previous post. “French regional associations in Old Shanghai“.

Amongst the French regions, Brittany has long had an history of emigration with a strong diaspora and support network. Breton cultural movement developped in the late 19th century, resulting in the creation of the Brittany flag in 1923 by Breton nationalist architect Morvan Marechal. Named the Gwenn-ha-du, it was presented at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Decoratifs. This major exhibition showcased Art Deco to the World, heavily influencing Shanghai architecture. This year is the 100th anniversary of the exhibition, with multiple events in Paris around this theme.

Bretons were active in Shanghai in the 1930s, as shown in articles in Le journal de Shanghai. Here is the story of the short-lived but active “Association amicale des Bretons de Shanghai”. Information mostly came from articles in “Le journal de Shanghai”. It is amusing to see that the activites of the 1930s Breton association is pretty similar to the one today.

15 Apr 1935 – Foundation of the association. President was Commandant Le Floch who was a professor at Ecole Remie, Rue Remie (today Yong Kang Lu / 永康路) and Vice-President was Mr H Chatel, who was the owner of the French Pharmacie Grenard & Co, 57 Nanking Road.

21st Apr 1935 – General assembly of the association, named “Le Biniou” at the Cercle Jeanne d’Arc, 199 Route du P`ere Robert (today RuiJin 2 Lu / 瑞金二路). All bretons in Shanghai were are invited.

Ouest Eclair 13th Aug 1935 (Thanks to Prof Jean-Luc Pinol)

29th Jun 1935 – Banquet of the “Association amicale des Bretons de Shanghai” re-named “Ar Mor” in “le foyer du Marin et du Soldat”, 49 Rue Victor Emmanuel III (today Shaoxing Lu / 绍兴路). 200 people attended, lead by the Commandant Le Floch, president of the association. Main guest included the French Consul and other important people of the French and Breton community.
An article with picture (see above) was published in Brittany newspaper Ouest Eclair on 13th Aug 1925. Another article with similar content but no photo was published in “La dépêche de Brest” 20th July 1935.

5th November 1935 – 1st Conference (“causerie) by Mr Schveitzer, a teacher at the French school, about the life of Breton navigator Yves de Kerguelen-Tremarec.

Article from Le journal de Shanghai 7th Nov 1935

7th November 1935 – 2nd Banquet of the association. with about 200 people, also at the “foyer du Marin et du Soldat”. Commandant Le Floch had great success in singing “la Chanson du cidre” (1929), which later became one of the most important Breton song.

19th Jan 1936 – Children party by the association. Paulette Hameury was the daughter of the association secretary.

Picture from “Le journal de Shanghai”
20th jan 1936

20th February 1936 – General assembly of the association, also at “Le foyer du Marin et du Soldat”.

16th Jun 1936 – Official opening of the “Jardin des Bretons de Shanghai”, Bretons Garden in Shanghai. This garden was located on Point Island (today Fuxing Dao / 复兴岛 in Yangpu district). Many French officials attended the ceremony. This was a great project for the Breton community that was to be developed in the following year. Unfortunately, the Japanese forces invaded Shanghai starting with Hongkou and Yangpu district in August 1937. No news of the Jardin des Bretons was found after this article.

October 1936 – Departure of Commandant le Floch leaving back to France. This is the last news I could find about the association.

A Shanghai Breton association was revived in 2008, with a meeting at Breton restaurant “La cr`êperie”. French online newspaper, Le Petit Journal, posted an article of the Bretons community in Shanghai in February 2025 (follow this link to read it).

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French regional associations in Old Shanghai

French people love “associations” or clubs around a specific topic. Incorporating a non-profit corporation (“association loi 1901” in French) is easy to create a legal framework for a sport club, a cultural society or a charity. As soon as a number of French people gather together, they form an “association”.

The oldest one representing French people abroad is UFE (Union des Français de l’étranger), founded in Paris in 1927. It was recreated in Shanghai around 2002. Its role is mostly to foster the social life of French people, organizing parties, talks and social events. I did not find traces of a representation in Old Shanghai, but maybe there was. However French people had many places to gather, such as the high end Cercle Sportif Français, and the more affordable Cercle Français.

A revival of those clubs was the Cercle Francophone de Shanghai (1991), now renamed as Shanghai Accueil. Another noticeable one is Solidarité Shanghai, which cares for French people in distress in Shanghai. I am sure something like that existed in Old Shanghai, at least informally, but I did not find traces either.

Along those national associations, there are also many that gather French people from a particular region of France. Bretons, Alsatians, Marseille and Lyon people are probably the biggest ones along with smaller ones like the ones of people from Bourgogne-Franche Comté, that I founded. I was amazed to find out that those kind of associations existed in Old Shanghai, as shown in below article from “Le Journal de Shanghai” 21st March 1928.

Here is a translation of the article:
“By the way…
In Shanghai, we have a consul general from Auvergne and a general from Brittany. I’m not even entirely sure that we don’t have, among the representatives of France’s friends and allies, a minister plenipotentiary from Provence and an ambassador from Champagne. In any case, there is probably no other place in the world where French regionalism takes on such a distinctly separatist character as it does here.”

As the article shows, French people in modern Shanghai have only restarted what already existed in Old Shanghai. Funny enough I have recently been appointed as an ambassador for the city of Dijon, contributing to this even more. Apart from this article, I only found actual traces of a Breton association called “Ar mor” that was created in December 1935, as shown by a small article in the Journal de Shanghai.

France is a centralized country and not a federation like Germany or Italy. Centralization and suppression of regional identity in France was particularly strong in the 19th and first half of the 20th century. Regional languages were suppressed, particularly after the introduction of free compulsory education in the late 19th century. It is then quite impressive to see this kind of regionalism in Old Shanghai, probably amplified by the distance with the home country.

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Happy new year 1925

Playing around during Christmas time, I got a picture that could very well have been taken 100 years ago. Good way to start the year.

繁花 Shanghai blossoms

After 3 years in the making, the first TV series of Wong Kar-wai (王家卫) has finally been released in the first days of January 2024. 繁花 (Shanghai blossoms) in English has taken like a storm. The TV series was broadcasted every night for 15 days, with 2 episodes / night. It was simultaneously available on online platforms. Every body has watched “繁花“，and everybody has watched it and everybody is talking about it. Focused on 1990s Shanghai, it is a little far away from this blogs topic, but definitely worth a post.

Shanghai born Hong Kong director Wong Kar-Wai 王家卫 is mostly known outside of China for the 2000 movie “In the mood for love” 花樣年華 that was nominated for Palm d’Or at Cannes festival 2000 and for which main actor, Tony Leung, won best actor. The move is also famous for its unforgettable soundtrack. Set in Shanghai in the 1990s, this new TV series offers quite similar dark atmosphere and visuals with many night scenes and and great music.

Taking place in Shanghai, it was filmed in Shanghainese dialect (shown with Chinese subtitle). Casting required most actors to be able to speak Shanghainese, who later dubbed a version in Mandarin that will be easier to understand by the rest of China. In a similar way to 2020 movie “B for busy” 爱情神话 (follow this link to original post about the movie), it particularly resonates with Shanghainese people. Shanghainese language has been on the decline in the last 30 years, so seeing major movie in Shanghainese language is an attraction. For more information about it, best is to read the article on English language magazine sixth tone by following this link https://www.sixthtone.com/news/1014442

A lot of energy was spent in collecting iconic objects for the 90s, including cars (mostly Volkswagen Santana), portable phone, cloths and other items, recreating a realistic Shanghai 90s picture. The story is based on a book of same name, inspired by real events from the 90s. The series really encapsulates the energy and craziness of 90s Shanghai, in a time that is not so crazy anymore. This reminds me a lot of about craziness and energy about Central Europe in the 90s, having lived both in Shanghai and Budapest in the 90s, I could see a lot of similarities. I am sure the series will be shown on tv outside of China. Watch for “Blossom Shanghai” when it comes.

Some of Shanghai blossoms main characters

Although the series was filmed in a purpose built decor in Shanghai film studio, where I went for a visit a number of years ago (see post “Shanghai cinema studio“), the story takes place in real Shanghai locations. Huang He lu, 黄河路 a former hyped street behind Park Hotel that had become totally sleepy after the 90s has become crowded with young people taking selfies.

黄河路 Huang He lu is suddenly the place to be

The English room of Peace Hotel (former Cathay Hotel) where part of the action also takes place is now booked for months in advance by people willing to recreate the experience of being there. Many restaurants now serve special “繁花” with food inspired by the series. Hopefully the hype will create interest in Shanghai history and help Shanghai preservation.

爱情神话 / B for busy

爱情神话, in English “B for busy” is a recent Shanghai movie that has taken the city like a storm. This is a story of Shanghai people, taking place in the heart of Shanghai… in Shanghai dialect.

爱情神话 can be translated as “love myth”. The movie is a romantic comedy centered on Old Bai, a Shanghai man in his mid 40s. Divorced since years, he still looking for love and find himself the center of attention of three women. His Tango lover ex-wife is still around, and his own mother never accepted their divorce. One of his female student is also showing clear interest, though he is mostly some kind of distraction for her. Along comes a new friend that is attracting a lot of his attention. This trio of women makes a mess of his own little comfortable life, along with old friend Lao Wu, with his legendary past adventures with women.

The movie reminded me a lot of French movies, that are often centered around a couple of people in a short period of time. It studies the interaction between and how they change each character’s life. It also gives a sense of intimacy that really helps the viewer to relate with the movies characters. It’s a romantic comedy, and like in many French movies, the viewer will experience both laugh and sadness within short periods of times, making the movie very close to real life. Like many intimate French movies, it is depicting the life of the middle class, with cultural or artistic background.

Having lived in Shanghai for more than 18 years, I could also find a lot of reminders of my own life in Shanghai. All characters speak Shanghai dialect and characters are a real reflection of Shanghai life, including food and habits. All exteriors have been filmed in the streets of the Former French Concession, where a lot of Shanghai people in their midlife have spent their childhood in, just like characters of the movie. Walking down one of those streets, I am half expecting to meet the movies characters along the way. The whole movie actually feels like a love letter to life in this city.

The combination of strong Shanghai feeling and close intimacy with the characters is surely what has made the success of the movie in Shanghai. At the same time, it is also attracting foreigners who live in the city, as it gives all of us a sense of proximity and belonging. .. thanks to the English subtitles in the theater version. Hopefully, this will also make successful abroad as well, showing a very human face of Shanghai to the World.

Update 2024: The new series “繁花 / Shanghai blossoms” in Shanghainese is the new pride for Shanghai people.

M on the Bund closure

Michelle Garnaut’s place, M on the Bund, was the original Bund’s renaissance restaurant. Open in 2002, it was then the only high level independent restaurant on the Bund. A staple of Shanghai nightlife as well as one of the most Old Shanghai evocative place in the city, the restaurant has announced in closure for 15th February 2022. With its unique style mixing modernity and old colonial atmosphere, it has been one of the top spot for Old Shanghai lovers and will be sadly missed.

Located in the former NKK Building, on Bund N5 at the Cross of Canton Road (Guangdong lu) and the Bund, M on the Bund occupies the top floor, including the small but really nice terrasse. Besides the location in the heart of Old Shanghai’s Bund, the whole decor and atmosphere feels like high class dining in Old Shanghai.

Lunch at M

Furniture, accessories and decor have been carefully curated to carry the real sense of class, sophistication and timelessness that makes great places. Staff has been trained and retained for years, creating a service level that is both very effective and nearly invisible. M’s brunch is still a favorite, along with its legendary Pavlova, but M on the Bund has been far more than a restaurant.

Michel Garnaut has been instrumental to bring culture to Shanghai, a place that was so much lacking of it. M was the main organiser and location of the now defunct Shanghai Literary Festival (See 2007 post “Quelques grammes de culture dans un monde de brutes“). The Glamour Bar (see post from 2009 “An old favorite the Glamour Bar“), was the place to present books about Old Shanghai in a timeless atmosphere. Many book reviews in this blog started with such a Saturday afternoon event or a lunch presentation at the Literary festival. My most vivid memory of those times is a presentation by the three ladies of Old Shanghai, Tess Johnston, Lynn Pan and Rena Krasno, probably around 2008. Since M on the Bund will close down in mid Feb, it’s the right to pay a last visit and enjoy the unique atmosphere of this legendary place.

Unfortunately, M on the Bund was not the only foreign place to close this winter. Famous Shanghai franchise Element Fresh, French veteran Le Café des stagiaires as well as Wine bar and terrasse favorite Kartel have already closed down in the last weeks.

Night out at the French Club

Old Shanghai has been back in fashion in the city for many years now, but so far it was mostly about architecture and famous people from the past. What was missing was a true popular event involving the Chinese public interested in the topic, just like the annual Napier Art Deco Festival in New Zealand that I attended in 2010. The Shanghai Style Fashion Festival that took place from 15th to 18th June is definitely along the same line and was great fun to attend.

Taking place in the former “Cercle Sportif Français“, today’s Okura garden hotel it merged an exhibition of Old Shanghai furniture and interiors, talks about the topic and evening events gala style events. Most of the participants followed the 1920-30’s dress code, adding to the atmosphere of the location.

The event combined several rooms exhibiting Old Shanghai furniture and interior, talks about the topic and daily evening parties including small scenes about Shanghai daily life, and Old Shanghai inspired fashion shows.

A unique feature was the presence of a live big band, a rare occasion in Shanghai, that also helped creating the right atmosphere. That is particularly true on 16th June, the Swing dance evening.

Dancing through the night, like in the 1930’s

With the enthusiasm of the real Swing dance club supporting the event, people dressed up and an original ballroom from the 1920’s, it really felt like a time travel to Old Shanghai. This is very much how a night out in the Canidrome Ballroom, or the Paramount must have felt like. Congrats to the organisers for the event and looking forward to the next edition.

Update: Shanghai fashion festival was also organised in 2022. I took part of the event with a speech in Chinese. See post “Media appearance in Chinese” for more details.

Shanghailander on Li Song Show

Francophone Chinese stand-up comedian Li Song has got really popular in the French community in Shanghai, and with China focused people in France and French speaking countries.

He launched in career with the stand-up show “Chroniques du débridé” in 2018. The weekly Show “Le Journal du débridé” started in 2020. I was invited to be part of #11, released on 27th Feb 2021 (the part on Shanghailander.net starts at 13:50). The show is available on Youtube and Wechat.

That’s Shanghai interview

I was fortunate enough to get interviewed by Shanghai magazine “That’s Shanghai” about Shanghailander.net turning soon 15 years old.

The most enjoyable is that in my first years in Shanghai, That’s Shanghai was the prime source of information about what to do in the city. In a time before social media, getting your hand on the magazine (available for free in most foreign bars and restaurant), was one of the highlight of the month. Great opportunity to grab a cup of coffee and spend one hour reading about new places opening and looking for you friends pictures in the socialite section 🙂

As information is now dominated by the internet and social media, That’s Shanghai is mostly read online, but they still print an actual magazine. Hopefully I’ll get a copy, sit down with a coffee and read it again.

The full article is available following this link: https://www.thatsmags.com/shanghai/post/32368/hugues-martin-on-old-shanghai-blog-shanghailander-turning-15