A number of exhibition about Laszlo Hudec have taken place in Shanghai since the 2008 Year of Hudec in China that really helped rediscovering his heritage in Shanghai and then in Hungary. Laszlo Hudec story and work was totally unkown in Hungary when I lived there, but I have noticed more and more people in know about him nowadays.
Thanks to the continuous work of Virag Csejdy, founder of the Hudec Cultural foundation in Budapest (https://www.hudecproject.com ) and thanks the Hungarian-Chinese friendship association, a major exhibition about Hungarian architects in Shanghai is now taking place in Budapest. This will surely help to raise the profile of those Hungarian architects that found fame in Shanghai.
“Timeless Modernity — The Shanghai Legacy of Hungarian Architects” opened on 1st December 2025 and will last until 22nd January 2026. It focuses on the work and legacy of Laszlo Hudec but also Károly Gonda, Béla Mátrai & Rudolf Sömjén.
The exhibition is taking place in the China Cultural Center in Budapest: Bosnyák utca 1 H-1149 Budapest
Unfortunately, I could not fit a trip to Budapest in my schedule during that time, but there are talks of taking the exhibition to Shanghai in 2026. I hope I will be able to see it then. In any case, this is a great excuse for a short stay in Budapest for old Shanghai lovers.
Shantou / 汕头 in Guangdong province is famous for its food and seaside. It is also the location of Swatow former concession. This was the opportunity for a short trip.
Although located half way between 1842 original concessions of Hong Kong et and Xiamen, Swatow was only opened as a treaty port in 1860 with the treaty of Tianjin. British and American consulate opened on Mayu island of the cost in 1860. The British Consulate later moved to Queshi, on the other side of the river to Swatow city. The American Consulate moved to Kia Lat area, on Tai-Malo street (today 外马路) area. Other consulates opened in the same area including Japanese, German, Norwegian and French, along with a Astor House hotel. At the time, the road was close to the river, but land has been reclaimed here since and the area has changed a lot.
1924 Japanese map of Swatow
Large trading houses were located further West, around the most densely populated area. They included usuals Butterfield & Swire, and Jardine & Matheson as well as China Merchants. Banks such as HSBC and Bank of China were also located close to the keyside.
Original Swatow customs
Although most of the sea side buildings have disappeared, the road going from the riverside inland has some interesting spots, starting with the Customs house on the riverside, that is now a museum. Hidden in the same area are the former customs quarter, but they are off limit for visitors. Further up is the Post Office that is still in use as its original function.
Swatow Post Office
Going further up, one encounters the beautiful Art Deco Bank of Guangdong building built in 1935 by Guangzhou architect Yang Xizong 杨锡宗.
Further up is the beautiful guan yin miao 观音庙 temple and the old fire station with the hospital opposite to it (this is still the site of today’s Shantou hospital).
Guan Ying Miao Temple
Former fire station
Further up on the road was the Consulate area. A French consulate official was dispatched in 1904 and the actual consulate opened in 1906. The building indicated on the 1924 map was built in 1923, located 11 Da Hua Road. Unfortunately, this building does not exist anymore.
Swatow did not have much trade with French companies, and France did not consider Swatow to be an important posting. Consular representative changed very frequently and often complained of the lack of activity. Looking into the foreign population of Swatow in 1933, I only found a few French people. Apart from PC Leblanc who was running the post office, and Jules Leurquin who was the French Consul, the only other French people were missionnaries.
This post focused on Tai-Malo street (today 外马路) were foreign consulates were located. Further posts will focus on Swatow old town and its beautiful architecture.
Although they were at most 1500 French people in Shanghai in the 1920s and 1930s, they were keen on getting together in regional groups. This was made clear in previous post. “French regional associations in Old Shanghai“.
Amongst the French regions, Brittany has long had an history of emigration with a strong diaspora and support network. Breton cultural movement developped in the late 19th century, resulting in the creation of the Brittany flag in 1923 by Breton nationalist architect Morvan Marechal. Named the Gwenn-ha-du, it was presented at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Decoratifs. This major exhibition showcased Art Deco to the World, heavily influencing Shanghai architecture. This year is the 100th anniversary of the exhibition, with multiple events in Paris around this theme.
Brittany flag
Bretons were active in Shanghai in the 1930s, as shown in articles in Le journal de Shanghai. Here is the story of the short-lived but active “Association amicale des Bretons de Shanghai”. Information mostly came from articles in “Le journal de Shanghai”. It is amusing to see that the activites of the 1930s Breton association is pretty similar to the one today.
15 Apr 1935 – Foundation of the association. President was Commandant Le Floch who was a professor at Ecole Remie, Rue Remie (today Yong Kang Lu / 永康路) and Vice-President was Mr H Chatel, who was the owner of the French Pharmacie Grenard & Co, 57 Nanking Road.
21st Apr 1935 – General assembly of the association, named “Le Biniou” at the Cercle Jeanne d’Arc, 199 Route du P`ere Robert (today RuiJin 2 Lu / 瑞金二路). All bretons in Shanghai were are invited.
Ouest Eclair 13th Aug 1935 (Thanks to Prof Jean-Luc Pinol)
29th Jun 1935 – Banquet of the “Association amicale des Bretons de Shanghai” re-named “Ar Mor” in “le foyer du Marin et du Soldat”, 49 Rue Victor Emmanuel III (today Shaoxing Lu / 绍兴路). 200 people attended, lead by the Commandant Le Floch, president of the association. Main guest included the French Consul and other important people of the French and Breton community. An article with picture (see above) was published in Brittany newspaper Ouest Eclair on 13th Aug 1925. Another article with similar content but no photo was published in “La dépêche de Brest” 20th July 1935.
5th November 1935 – 1st Conference (“causerie) by Mr Schveitzer, a teacher at the French school, about the life of Breton navigator Yves de Kerguelen-Tremarec.
Article from Le journal de Shanghai 7th Nov 1935
7th November 1935 – 2nd Banquet of the association. with about 200 people, also at the “foyer du Marin et du Soldat”. Commandant Le Floch had great success in singing “la Chanson du cidre” (1929), which later became one of the most important Breton song.
19th Jan 1936 – Children party by the association. Paulette Hameury was the daughter of the association secretary.
Picture from “Le journal de Shanghai” 20th jan 1936
20th February 1936 – General assembly of the association, also at “Le foyer du Marin et du Soldat”.
16th Jun 1936 – Official opening of the “Jardin des Bretons de Shanghai”, Bretons Garden in Shanghai. This garden was located on Point Island (today Fuxing Dao / 复兴岛 in Yangpu district). Many French officials attended the ceremony. This was a great project for the Breton community that was to be developed in the following year. Unfortunately, the Japanese forces invaded Shanghai starting with Hongkou and Yangpu district in August 1937. No news of the Jardin des Bretons was found after this article.
October 1936 – Departure of Commandant le Floch leaving back to France. This is the last news I could find about the association.
A Shanghai Breton association was revived in 2004 by Pierre-Yves Connan and Gwen Chesnais. It has been active ever since. French online newspaper,Le Petit Journal, posted an article of the Bretons community in Shanghai in February 2025 (follow this link to read it).
Following this original article, I was offered more information about the Bretons community in Old Shanghai. Read post “More about Bretons in old Shanghai” for details.
Looking for Old Shanghai style places, I ended up by invitation in Old Shanghai themed restaurant 人和館 / Renheguan.
Although it is located in a modern building (and not in an old house unfortunately), the owner has managed to recreate a great old Shanghai atmosphere. I went on a day when it was packed, and the whole place was bustling and Shanghainese language was all over the place… as it should be.
The restaurant is located on Zhao Jia Bang Lu, formerly the Zhaojia creek / 肇嘉浜, that used to be the separation between the French Concession and the South part of the Chinese city, called 南市. Old houses are located in the area, that was quite upscale in the 1930s so it’s a good place from a historical point of view.
Since the restaurant has 1 start Michelin, the food was excellent, well executed and delicious. This really felt like a short trip to Old Shanghai, reminding me of the now closed Xian Qiang Fang.
人和館 / Renheguan can be found at 407 Zhaojiabang Road / 肇嘉浜路407号.
I have always had a very special interest for tramways. When living in Budapest before Shanghai, I used them daily. There tramways have been kept, maintained and expanded since the early part of the XXth century. In Shanghai, trams were dismantled in the ’70s. This early symbol of modernity was sacrificed to the new modernity of bus running on petrol and automobiles.
Tram on the garden bridge (Coll Shanghailander.net)
Trams in Shanghai were introduced in March 1908 in the international settlement (line from the Bund to Jing An temple). Part of today’s Metro line 2 follows the same track. This was followed in May 1908 by the first line of the French Concession. Part of today’s Metro line 1 follows the same line. The third company in the Chinese city, the Nanshi line was opened in 1913.
Trams on the French Bund (Coll Shanghailander.net)
In Chinese trams are called 有轨电车, but the colloquial name in Shanghainese was 铛铛车 / Dang Dang Chi, meaning dang dang car because of the bell used to wave off people and obstacles on the tracks.
The closest thing to tramway in Shanghai is probably the line 71, that crosses Shanghai on a East West line under the Yanan elevated motorway. Although it’s not a real tramway, but a trolley bus, it follows part of the former tramway track on former Avenue Joffre / Avenue Edouard VII. The story goes that it was originally planned to be an actual tramway, but then the project changed to a trolley bus that is more flexible. Anyway, it makes an enjoyable ride in central Shanghai, giving a bit of old time tramway feeling.
Many cities in China operated tramways, but the only one that kept them running continuously in mainland China is Dalian, that started operation in 1909.
Dalian tramways (picture Wikipedia)
Hong Kong is the other place to watch old tramways, where they have been running since 1904. Hong Kong tramways are nicknamed 叮叮车 Ding ding chi, similar to the name in Shanghai. Since I go to Hong Kong regularly, I often enjoy taking the tram to go to some business meetings.
Old Hong Kong tramways (picture SCMP)
Trams in Hong Kong were originally very similar to Shanghai ones. They changed to double deckers in the 1910s. As far as I could find, Hong Kong is the only place in the World were the entire tram fleet is made of double deckers. They never existed in Shanghai.
Tram cars in Hong Kong are of various age, and some are very old but well maintained. I recently took a tram with nice wooden chairs with rattan seat. Windows were wooden with a wooden supported roof. I don’t know when this car was built, but it felt like from the 40s or maybe even earlier.
Taking the tram in HK is very practical for short distances on the island. It is also a great way for a quick and cheap time travel, particularly around (the few remaining) old buildings. It’s a great way to imagine what it was to go down Shanghai Nanking Road or Avenue Joffre on a tram.
Shanghailander articles are published on an irregular basis. To be notified when a new article is posted, subscribe to the newsletter on the left column of this page, or follow the Shanghailander Facebook page.
I have never found any interest in the life of British Royals. As Paul French looked into Wallis Simpson stay in Shanghai in his new book: “Her Lotus year”, this attracted my attention into this episode of Royal history.
Having spent years living in Shanghai, Paul French is no new comer to Old Shanghai and author of several deeply researched books on the topic. Those included “The Old Shanghai A-Z“, Carl Crow’s biography “A tough Old China hand” and “City of devils, a Shanghai noir”. He then turned on to Beijing, investigation a 1937 crime in “Midnight in Peking“. This made him the perfect candidate to investigate Wallis Simpson stay in China, a part that was mostly overlooked from other biographers.
Wallis Simpson arrived in Hong Kong in September 1924, rejoining her husband, an american navy officer, in an attempt to revive their marriage. The reunification failed and she embarked on daring trips to Canton, Shanghai and Beijing. China political situation at the time was chaotic at best, as the country was nearly in civil war. Several armies were fighting for controlling the country, in what became known as the warlord period. The complete chaos of China at the time is well described by journalist Albert Londres who travelled to China at the same time and related his trip in book “La Chine en folie“. Travelling as a single women, Wallis Simpson was probably on missions carrying important documents for the US army or administration, shown by the monetary and logistics support she received.
Arriving in Shanghai in November 1924 on Canadian ship “Empress of Russia”, she stayed at the high end Palace Hotel on the Bund, close to the American consulate. Wallis Simpson quickly integrated the top of Shanghai foreign society, with the help of “Robbie” an English architect who later designed the new Shanghai Race Club building in 1934. He took her to the Majestic Hotel, to the horse races, and among the powerful people of city. In December 1924 she departed to Beijing. She only spent a few weeks in Shanghai, and none of the rumors seem true, apart from Wallis Simpson easily befriending people in the higher tier of society.
The Shanghai Bund in the 1920’s, looking at the Palace Hotel
One of the recurring theme about Wallis Simpson is the “China dossier” compiled by the British secret services, showing how scandalous she was. She was rumored to have had affairs with multiple men, even selling sexual services and using the exotic skills learned in Asia to capture her preys. The “Shanghai grip” was particularly talked about, “The ability to make a match stick feel like a cigar”. Paul French rigorous inquiry shows that most of those rumors where unfounded, but cleverly crafted so as to be made easily believable. A number of the stories were actually true, referring to other women living in China in the same period. Confusion was easily spread, supported by the Western fascination for the exotic East.
Paul French conclusion is that the whole China Dossier was falsely created to destroy the reputation of Wallis Simpson and discourage her marriage with future King Edward the VIII. In the end, the King abdicated a few days after his coronation, to be able to marry her. In retrospect, this was a perfect outcome as Edward VIII seems to have had a lack of judgment if not strong sympathies for Nazi Germany, even visiting Adolf Hitler in October 1937.
Wallis Simpson, Edward VIII and Hitler
With little actual facts, Paul French is great at filling the gaps of the story and gives a lot of background information thanks to his in-depth knowledge of Shanghai and Beijing at the time. The books make an entertaining and easy read, while being supported by in-depth research. Besides the Wallis angle, it is also a great introduction to foreigners life in Beijing in the 1920s, where Wallis Simpson spent most of her China time.
Shanghailander articles are published on an irregular basis. To be notified when a new article is posted, subscribe to the newsletter on the left column of this page, or follow the Shanghailander Facebook page.
The summer of 2025 was an opportunity to spend more time in my home city, Dijon, and to revisit its art deco heritage. With more time at hand, I could explore more areas, expanding from my original post from 2013 (see post “Dijon Art Deco” for more details). This is a side post from the main topic of the blog, Old Shanghai.
Although its traces go back to the Roman Empire, the city is mostly known for its medieval architecture, built during the Duke of Burgundy time in the 14th and 15th century. 16th and 17th Century renaissance architecture saw the rise “hôtels particuliers” or private mansions closely inspired by Paris ones like Hotel Sully. The city was called “small Paris” for a while. Dijon population grew rapidly in the 1920s, creating opportunities for construction. The style in vogue was modernistic, part of it is now called Art Deco.
Modernist building on 9 Rue Dr Chaussier
One of the most noticed Art / Deco modernist building is on 9 Rue Dr Chaussier, from 1938. The U shaped design with double exposure creates a lot of light in the apartments. The inside staircase is clearly streamline design and architect P. Leroy used floor patterns similar to the one used on the MS Normandy, as well as some LVK buildings in Shanghai (see post “Deja vu from Paris to Shanghai” for more information).
Unfortunately, the building was taken over by the Gestapo after June 1940 and used as its headquarter for the city. Brand new and located close to the German authorities headquarters in the city, it was an easy prey for the invaders. This story is quiet similar to the one of “Bridge House” in Shanghai, a great Art Deco building that became the headquarter of the Japanese Kempeitai.
Another great art deco building in the city center is the newly renovated Hotel Central by Dijon Architect Gaston Paris.
The city historical architecture was mostly protected, so Art Deco building in Dijon are mostly found in the suburbs of the time. Besides the Montchapet district seen in post “Dijon Art Deco“, the area of rue de la Maladière was also built during the 1920s and 1930s. In this area, the “Eglise du Sacré Coeur” is an art deco festival.
Started in 1933 and finished in 1938, the church combines some regional features (mostly the Burgundy style rood), with modernism of the time. Apart from the 50 meters clock tower, the main point is the giant fresco of Jesus over the heart of the Church.
The design of the side chapels and the stain glasses also has a strong Art Deco feeling.
The Sacre Coeur church of Dijon is on the great Art Deco churchs, built around the same time than Vichy’s Notre-Dame des malades (1925-1931), Paris Saint-Jean Bosco church in Paris (1933-1937). It is also a similar time line to Hudec Moore Church in Shanghai.
There are many more Art Deco apartments building in Dijon, including the massive Art Deco apartment building on 33 Rue Sambin, by Dijon Architects Joseph and André Favre.
For information on Dijon Art Deco, please go to post “Dijon Art Deco“. Although Shanghai Art Deco is not the same a Dijon’s, they have a lot in common in terms of time period and style. Looking for Dijon Art Deco is like keeping the link with old Shanghai when I am away.
Old Shanghai crime novels have long been an interest of mine as part of this blog. A number of them are really good, including City of lost souls, 2024 and the inspector Danilov series, recreating Old Shanghai atmosphere, sounds and smell while keeping the historical context. Taking place in modern Shanghai, I have also tremendously enjoyed inspector Chen novels by Qiu Xiaolong, including Red Mandarin dress. Besides Old Shanghai, crime novels are also a good way to explore other places in 1920s and 1930s as well as their connections with Old Shanghai. I read Babylon Berlin, taking in place in 1930s Berlin a few summers ago. For a trip to 1920s India, I turned to Abir Mukherjee’s “A rising man”.
1920s Calcutta and 1920s Shanghai have a lot more in common that I expected. First of all, Calcutta transportation was mainly done by hand pulled rickshaw. The japanese invention that is so often assimilated with Shanghai also made its way to India. Calcutta also had tramway network, similar to Shanghai.
Image Credit: bjornmoerman.blogspot.com
Although large areas of India were largely controlled by Britain throughout the 17th century, the actual control of India by the British government, known as the British Raj, started in 1858. In China, the 1842 Nanjing Treaty opened 5 treaty ports including Shanghai. The world “Bund” in Shanghai Bund is even from an Hindi word band (बंद / بند), showing the influence of the Indian experience on Brits coming to China.
Brits also imported the same club culture and segregation between the white rulers and the local population. The Shanghai Club scene seemed to closely ressemble to Calcutta one. However, in Shanghai this seems to have receded in the 1930s in turn for a more mixed society. This did not seem to have happened in India, with British control making the separation even stronger.
Trade connection was very strong between India and the Chinese treaty ports. Opium was the main export, grown in India and then transported to China in a triangular trade. The main traders were Shanghai British based Jardine & Matheson and Butterfield & Swire. Although they originated from Shanghai, that had strong business links with India. Jewish families originally from Baghdad, also moved to India in the centuries before then on to Shanghai in the late 19th and early 20th century. The Sassoon and Kadoorie families who dominated Shanghai where from Mumbai. The Ezra family, another preeminent Jewish family in Shanghai originated from Calcutta.
Another strong link was through the police and the military. Although the Shanghai police force of the international settlement was not directly a British force, it employed many former military and policemen who had served in the UK or in India. The British forces even brought their Sikh guards that were common in India, to serve as guards and traffic police in Shanghai.
“A rising man” takes place in April 1919, with the Amritsar Massacre in the background of the story. More than 350 people were killed when the British forces opened fire on a crowd protesting against repressive colonial ruling and the arrest of important Indian leaders. This post WW1 period also saw the emergence of the May 4th 1919 movement in China, that was also protesting against colonial rules in China. The Amristar Massacre is also sadly similar to the 1925 Louza lu police station incident, when Chinese protester confronted the police which fired on the crowd. Just like the Amritsar massacre, the Louza Lu police station incident sparked a much wider nationalistic movement demanding the end of colonial rule.
“A rising man” is a great way to get some exposure to British India and an understanding of the British Raj. It’s also a page turner crime novel with fascinating characters and a twisted story. Calcutta and Shanghai had a lot more in common than I thought at first. This made it an even more enjoyable read.
For this 9th trip to the beautiful island of Kulangsu (today GuLangYu), we chose to use the ferry to the west side of the island. The Gulangyu Neicuo’ao Wharf (鼓浪屿内厝澳码头) is located where the Foo kien Tanning Co factory used to be. This side of the Island is away from the port of Xiamen and could only accessed on land via the long costal road in the 1930s. As a consequence, it was more secluded and old villas are rarer that on the other side. This whole area is now covered with parks and modern hotels. This makes it a nice place to disembark, but lacks the real Gulangyu feeling. However, one does not have to look too far to find nice surprises.
Behind some more modern constructions, stands one of the rare neo-Confucian style building on Gulangyu. The style is a combination of modernity and traditions. Bottom floors are modern but the top floors and roof look like traditional Chinese buildings. This style was popular in Xiamen in the 1920s and 30s coming with the influence and money from South East Asia. One classical example is the famous Xiamen University, along with the Xiamen Overseas Chinese Museum.
Neo Confucian villa on Gulangyu
This villa was clearly the private estate of a wealthy South East Asian family. At the time of construction, it was probably far away from other houses. From the style I guess it’s from the early 1930s. The top floor is of traditional Fujian style, while the bottom is much more modern. On Gulangyu, the only other one I know is 海天堂, Hi heaven, the largest old villa complex on the island.
The Sino-American School of Gulangyu was located a little further on the same beach road. It was run by missionaries and associated with the Seventh-days Adventists. From the map, I believe the school building is still there (see below), although it has long stopped been a school. It’s mix of modern and classic western is totally different from the house above.
Former Gulangyu Sino-American School building
Our hotel was once again located in a renovated old villa. Overlooking both the West and East side, it was a large park on the top of hill. The main building is mentioned as being from the 1920s, but the style is more like late30s. The entrance on the small street under the tree shade is really enjoyable.
View from the top of the main building clearly shows this must have been a really secluded place in the past, all buildings looking down are modern. In the old time, this could have been forest or even agricultural fields. The location is clearly on a high point of the island as the view goes all over to Xiamen port far away. There is only one house upper in the street.
West side with modern buildings
As the East side is much steeper, no modern building seem to have been added. This side seems abandoned, giving a good feeling of how it used to be when only few old houses stood here. A mysterious old and uninhabited villa stand among the lush trees. This side really feels like far away from the World, a great place to relax and imagine how quite and secluded this side of GuLangYu was before tourists came over.
Although the island has now become a main tourist attraction, there are still spots away from the crowd on this wild side of Gulangyu, while being only a few steps away from the more famous spots.
The 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs is seen as the spring box of the Art Deco style, from which it spread all over the World. At that time, it was mostly called modern style and evolved in various sub-branch. One of the later one is called “streamline design” in English, or “Style paquebot” (i.e. sealiner style) in French. I recently got an opportunity to visit a very specific paquebot style building in Paris, thanks to Paris Art Deco Society.
Located at 1 Rue Jacques-Callot, in Saint-Germain des Prés, the Callot building was designed by Roger-Henry Expert and completed in 1933. In the same year, Roger-Henry Expert also designed the passenger deck of the SS Normandie steamship, an Art Deco showcase. The Callot building was originally housing the architecture department of the nearby “Ecole des beaux-arts”. It is now one of the campuses of the architecture school ENSA-Paris Malaquais, thus it was an architecture school since conception until today.
It was extremely avant-garde at the time, and probably influenced many of the architecture students who then helped spreading the style all over the World. The ground floor space is an exhibition hall. The best spot of the building is probably the 5th floor offers a fantastic view over many Paris historical buildings.
View from the top floor
The metal structure supporting the glass roof looks quite similar to the structure of the Normandy building over the 1st class deck. Both were designed by the same architect. Tiling similar to the SS Normandie tiling style can also be found in Shanghai, see post “Déjà vu from Paris to Shanghai“.
5th floor of Callot buildingNormandie steamship 1st class deck
Streamline design buildings were also built in Shanghai, the most visible being the former empire Mansion at the corner of Huai Hai lu / 淮海路 (the former Avenue Joffre) and Changshu Lu / 常熟路 (the former Route de Say-Zoong). Up the same street stands another steamship style building, not far from the former location of the “Jardin Français“. Another example was the Lafayette cinema that has recently disappeared (See post “Goodbye to Lafayette Cinema“).
Side of Empire MansionAnother beauty up the street
Long after the end of streamline design in the late 1940s, the style was still popular in Shanghai. Many buildings form 1990s Shanghai still show remains of streamline design, as shown in post “Frankenstein Art Deco“, where the link with the original Callot building is still clearly visible.
The ground floor of the Callot building has an newly refurbished exhibition space that would be just right for a Art Deco exhibition. Hopefully such exhibition will happen soon.
