Shanghailander

More about Shanghai Bretons

I recently wrote a post about Bretons in Shanghai in the late 1930s (see post “Bretons association in Old Shanghai” for more details). Then the current Association of the Bretons in Shanghai got in touch with me and shared some more info.

Most of the information was given by Henry Berthier, born in Shanghai in 1946, who shared some unique pictures taken by his grand mother who took part in the association. He confirmed the existence of the Jardin Bretons for a couple of years. He also mentionned a “Fête des provinces Françaises” July 1938 or 1939 to which Alsace, Normandie, Basque country and Brittany had representations. This matches previous information about French regional associations in Old Shanghai (see post for more information).

Armor Association 1938, the church person is probably Mr Auguste Haouissée. on his left is Auguste Chapelain

In the 1930s, the French community accounted for approximately 2500 people. About 50 Bretons families lived in Shanghai, around 350 people. Thus about 14%% of the French community was from Brittany. Most Bretons spoke Breton language at that time, along with French.

Many were working for the police (about 10 Bretons amongst 70 French officers), the French municipality, the CFTEE, and other private companies. The police and CFTEE often recruited former French sailors which were 90% Bretons. There were also military personnel and priest. Breton Auguste Haouissée (1847-1946) was a Jesuit missionary who became the first catholic bishop of Shanghai in 1928, opening the She Shan Basilica in 1935. Another notable character on the above picture is Auguste Chapelain, the general manager of the Chinese post office.

The Breton association Armor also had it own insignia featuring a chines ship with mention “上海”, “Changhai” and “Armor”.

The association had parties where participants wore the traditionnal Bretons dress, in particular at Christmas. This was mentionned in “Le Journal de Shanghai” article quoted in the “Breton association in Old Shanghai” post.

Original photo of the Bretons Party in Old Shanghai

The Breton association continued to exist until the mid 1940s, when most of the civil servants were brought back to France as the French Concession was given back to China. As mentionned in previous post, a Breton association was formed again in 2004 in Shanghai and is still active today.

For further informations about the Breton association in Old Shanghai, go to post “Bretons association in Old Shanghai“.

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Shanghai Telephone Company

Introduced to Shanghai in 1882, phone services were ubiquitous in the 1930s. Just like today, phone was used to communicate to other people, but also to order services such a taxi, or grocery to be delivered.

Availability and usage of the telephone greatly increased after the purchase of the Shanghai Telephone Company by American company International Telegraph and Telephone (ITT) in 1930. The company oversaw the phone service in the city. Below is a share for Shanghai telephone. It was listed on the Shanghai stock exchange at the time.

Just like today, the company was issuing monthly bills to customers. Below is a real phone bill from 1937. ITT is mentioned in the logo.

The cost for local phone was fixed for businesses (10$ / month for a wall type phone, and 10.50$ / month for a desk type like the one in picture below). For private residence, it was 6.50$ and 7$ respectively). This was only for renting the line, local calls, Intercommunication and Long distance calles were billed separately. The company also offered phone answering service and even “Burglar alarm service”.

Besides phones in private residences and offices, public phones were available. They were stand alone or often part of shop. People could make local calls from those locations, paying with a phone call token like the one below. As mentioned on the token itself, one token was good for one (local) call: “可打一次: good for one call”

Phones in 1930s Shanghai phones typically included a rotary dial, Bakelite casings as well as separate handset and base unit. I recently acquired one which looks just like the one represented on the phone token above.

The types of black phones have become one of the symbols of Old Shanghai. They often appear as artefact in movies and TV series. The original one are from the mid 1930’s. They were locally manufactured, inspired by US Western Electric models 102 and 202 from the same period. As many technology items of the time in China and other communist countries, they continued to be produced nearly unchanged for many years. Many can be found with labels showing they were built well into the 1970s.

This one is definitely of a really old one, probably from the late 1930s. Its handset and casing is engraved with S.T.C , standing for Shanghai Telephone Company. After 1949, later ones were engraved with 上海, Shanghai in Chinese characters. Further on, there was no more engraving, and the handset design was changed.

This kind of phone became the standard for phones in China, as phone coverage spread in the country after the 1950s. They are now mostly used as decorative items, nice reminder of the Old Shanghai modernity at the time.

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Histoire de la Concession Française de Changhai

One of the reference book about Shanghai history French book “Histoire de la Concession Française de Changhai” by Charles Maybon & Jean Fredet. I recently got an original copy during my last trip to France.

Although written in Shanghai, the book was published in Paris in 1929 by Paris publishing house Plon. It covers the history of the French Concession of Shanghai from its origin in 1848 and even before, until 1875. The book is highly detailed and includes many maps of the early French Concession, at a time it was only located around (French) Bund. Other books were planned but was never published as Jean Fredet passed away before publication of this one.

It also includes a number of photographs from the late 19th century, that are very rare. It shows the fast development of the city as none of the Bund building of the time have survived until today.

Another interesting point is the map of the early French Concession. The area then was only a small piece of land between the Chinese city and the early International Settlement. The French Consulate was not even on the river (more about this period in post “former Shanghai French Consulate“).

Like most books of that period, it was sold uncut. Large sheets of printed paper were folded into a book, then a binder would cut the edges as part of the biding process. Alternatively, the reader could cut the sheets while reading, showing how far he or she went in reading the book.

I was fortunate to get an uncut copy, meaning that it was never read before. As it was in great condition, I assume this copy has been sitting of the owner’s bookshelf for decades. As I want to keep it in original stage, I will not cut it either. Fortunately, a scanned copy of the book is available as a download from the site of the French National Library, which is also fully searchable. It is not as charming as my old copy but much more effective for research purposes. Follow this link to get it: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k33623471#

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Wedding at Fitch Memorial Church

There are many churches in Shanghai, as both concessions were hosting many christians religious people. Catholics was mostly supported by the French, with the Jesuits area of Xu Jia Hui being next to the former French concession. The international settlement was supporting the Church of England, with a cathedral behind the Bund. Many protestant missionaries were using Shanghai as a base to convert people all over China, and they also built Churches in Shanghai. I recently attended a Christian wedding at Fitch Memorial Church in Hong Kou district.

Fitch Memorial Church is the only church in Shanghai to be designed in the Neo Confucian style, also called Republican style. This combines the exterior of the traditional Chinese building, although built in concrete not wood, with the inside of a modern building.

Fitch Memorial Chirch was completed in 1928. This is also the time when the whole Hongkou district was developing. The architect was Yang Xiulu / 楊錫鏐 which firm also built the Paramount Ball Room and the Nanjing Hotel on Guizhou lu. It also designed the YMCA building in Xizhang Road, that is of the same style than the Fitch Memorial Church.

The outside is rich with details.

Although there are many churches in Shanghai, it is still rare to have wedding in an actual church. The couple are both member of this church, creating a really special atmosphere. It felt a bit like in a movie.

The church has two full worship floors on the top of each other, which is rather rare. I guess this was planned to handle more ceremonies at the same time. The wedding was on the upper floor, but I could also get a view on the lower one.

The church has been through a lot over history, including as a shelter for refugees during the 1932 Japanese attack and being used as an hospital during cultural revolution. It was refurbished in the 1990s with a lot of original details having been preserved including stained glasses below.

Fitch Memorial Church was name after Reverend George Field Fitch (1845-1923). Arriving in China in 1870, he become an important leader of the Presbyterian Mission Press. His work is credited with revolutionizing China’s printing industry and establishing Shanghai as a key publishing hub in Asia.

The Fitch Memorial Church is located at 59 Duolun Lu in Hongkou district.

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Longchamp house in the former French Concession

Luxury brands have been using old Shanghai houses to make stores or customer experience centers for a few years now. Although renovation does not always follow historical lines, it’s a great opportunity to preserve and open those old buildings to the public.

The earliest I can remember the opening of Three on the Bund, the pioneer of Bund old building renovation in 2003. It was followed by Bund 18 in late 2004. One massive project was the renovation of the twin villas on 796 Huai Hai Road by Richemont, that opened in 2008. The renovation was of the highest level, done by the same Italian company that did Bund 18. Another famous example is the Maison Hermes, taking over the building of the former Joffre police station on Huai Hai Road. The last one to come to mind was the Shanghai Tang store @ Cathay Cinema that has now disappeared.

Walking in the street of the former French Concession, I came by random to the new Longchamp house 12 Wu Kang Lu. The outside of the art deco house has been well preserved. The house was built in 1948, one of the last Art Deco / modernist style. Details of the outside have been well preserved including the rot iron frame and balcony, as well as the bricks color.

The inside has been totally renovated, still keeping the beautiful staircase.

Original parts like the windows have been recreated with a fitting model, creating a new old and new atmosphere that fits the French brand well.

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Paris Art Deco Congress

Today is the start of the Art Deco Congress in Paris, celebrating the 100 anniversary of the Exposition International des Arts Décoratifs where Art Deco was introduced to the Word.

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Bretons association in Old Shanghai

Although they were at most 1500 French people in Shanghai in the 1920s and 1930s, they were keen on getting together in regional groups. This was made clear in previous post. “French regional associations in Old Shanghai“.

Amongst the French regions, Brittany has long had an history of emigration with a strong diaspora and support network. Breton cultural movement developped in the late 19th century, resulting in the creation of the Brittany flag in 1923 by Breton nationalist architect Morvan Marechal. Named the Gwenn-ha-du, it was presented at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Decoratifs. This major exhibition showcased Art Deco to the World, heavily influencing Shanghai architecture. This year is the 100th anniversary of the exhibition, with multiple events in Paris around this theme.

Bretons were active in Shanghai in the 1930s, as shown in articles in Le journal de Shanghai. Here is the story of the short-lived but active “Association amicale des Bretons de Shanghai”. Information mostly came from articles in “Le journal de Shanghai”. It is amusing to see that the activites of the 1930s Breton association is pretty similar to the one today.

15 Apr 1935 – Foundation of the association. President was Commandant Le Floch who was a professor at Ecole Remie, Rue Remie (today Yong Kang Lu / 永康路) and Vice-President was Mr H Chatel, who was the owner of the French Pharmacie Grenard & Co, 57 Nanking Road.

21st Apr 1935 – General assembly of the association, named “Le Biniou” at the Cercle Jeanne d’Arc, 199 Route du P`ere Robert (today RuiJin 2 Lu / 瑞金二路). All bretons in Shanghai were are invited.

Ouest Eclair 13th Aug 1935 (Thanks to Prof Jean-Luc Pinol)

29th Jun 1935 – Banquet of the “Association amicale des Bretons de Shanghai” re-named “Ar Mor” in “le foyer du Marin et du Soldat”, 49 Rue Victor Emmanuel III (today Shaoxing Lu / 绍兴路). 200 people attended, lead by the Commandant Le Floch, president of the association. Main guest included the French Consul and other important people of the French and Breton community.
An article with picture (see above) was published in Brittany newspaper Ouest Eclair on 13th Aug 1925. Another article with similar content but no photo was published in “La dépêche de Brest” 20th July 1935.

5th November 1935 – 1st Conference (“causerie) by Mr Schveitzer, a teacher at the French school, about the life of Breton navigator Yves de Kerguelen-Tremarec.

Article from Le journal de Shanghai 7th Nov 1935

7th November 1935 – 2nd Banquet of the association. with about 200 people, also at the “foyer du Marin et du Soldat”. Commandant Le Floch had great success in singing “la Chanson du cidre” (1929), which later became one of the most important Breton song.

19th Jan 1936 – Children party by the association. Paulette Hameury was the daughter of the association secretary.

Picture from “Le journal de Shanghai”
20th jan 1936

20th February 1936 – General assembly of the association, also at “Le foyer du Marin et du Soldat”.

16th Jun 1936 – Official opening of the “Jardin des Bretons de Shanghai”, Bretons Garden in Shanghai. This garden was located on Point Island (today Fuxing Dao / 复兴岛 in Yangpu district). Many French officials attended the ceremony. This was a great project for the Breton community that was to be developed in the following year. Unfortunately, the Japanese forces invaded Shanghai starting with Hongkou and Yangpu district in August 1937. No news of the Jardin des Bretons was found after this article.

October 1936 – Departure of Commandant le Floch leaving back to France. This is the last news I could find about the association.

A Shanghai Breton association was revived in 2004 by Pierre-Yves Connan and Gwen Chesnais. It has been active ever since. French online newspaper, Le Petit Journal, posted an article of the Bretons community in Shanghai in February 2025 (follow this link to read it).

Following this original article, I was offered more information about the Bretons community in Old Shanghai. Read post “More about Bretons in old Shanghai” for details.

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French regional associations in Old Shanghai

French people love “associations” or clubs around a specific topic. Incorporating a non-profit corporation (“association loi 1901” in French) is easy to create a legal framework for a sport club, a cultural society or a charity. As soon as a number of French people gather together, they form an “association”.

The oldest one representing French people abroad is UFE (Union des Français de l’étranger), founded in Paris in 1927. It was recreated in Shanghai around 2002. Its role is mostly to foster the social life of French people, organizing parties, talks and social events. I did not find traces of a representation in Old Shanghai, but maybe there was. However French people had many places to gather, such as the high end Cercle Sportif Français, and the more affordable Cercle Français.

A revival of those clubs was the Cercle Francophone de Shanghai (1991), now renamed as Shanghai Accueil. Another noticeable one is Solidarité Shanghai, which cares for French people in distress in Shanghai. I am sure something like that existed in Old Shanghai, at least informally, but I did not find traces either.

Along those national associations, there are also many that gather French people from a particular region of France. Bretons, Alsatians, Marseille and Lyon people are probably the biggest ones along with smaller ones like the ones of people from Bourgogne-Franche Comté, that I founded. I was amazed to find out that those kind of associations existed in Old Shanghai, as shown in below article from “Le Journal de Shanghai” 21st March 1928.

Here is a translation of the article:
“By the way…
In Shanghai, we have a consul general from Auvergne and a general from Brittany. I’m not even entirely sure that we don’t have, among the representatives of France’s friends and allies, a minister plenipotentiary from Provence and an ambassador from Champagne. In any case, there is probably no other place in the world where French regionalism takes on such a distinctly separatist character as it does here.”

As the article shows, French people in modern Shanghai have only restarted what already existed in Old Shanghai. Funny enough I have recently been appointed as an ambassador for the city of Dijon, contributing to this even more. Apart from this article, I only found actual traces of a Breton association called “Ar mor” that was created in December 1935, as shown by a small article in the Journal de Shanghai.

France is a centralized country and not a federation like Germany or Italy. Centralization and suppression of regional identity in France was particularly strong in the 19th and first half of the 20th century. Regional languages were suppressed, particularly after the introduction of free compulsory education in the late 19th century. It is then quite impressive to see this kind of regionalism in Old Shanghai, probably amplified by the distance with the home country.

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Farewell to Tess Johnston

This is with great sadness that I learned that Tess Johnston has passed away on 14 September 2025.

When she was born in Charlottesville, Virginia, in 1931, nobody could have predicted that Tess Johnston would fall in love with Shanghai and spend a large share of her life in this city. Working with the American diplomatic service, based in East Berlin and Saigon before reaching Shanghai in 1981. Fascinated by the city’s architecture frozen in time, she was one of the first foreigners to study it on location. After studying it for years, she turned her passion into a first book, along with photographer Deke Ehr / 尔东强, “A last look, Western architecture in Old Shanghai”, 1993.

This was the first book showing pictures of Shanghai historic architecture and research about the history of those buildings. It shed a new light on the city’s architecture and history. Knowledge of the city’s history was limited then and research was much harder before the internet but the book inspired lot’s of people and numerous projects contributing to better understand Old Shanghai. She became an inspiration for generations of amateur researchers (like me) and academics to dig deeper into Shanghai history.

The pair would write numerous other books focused on areas in Shanghai like “Frenchtown Shanghai”, 2000, focusing on the former French Concession. They also studied other former “treaty port” cities in China like Hankou, Qingdao, Tianjin, Xiamen, GuLangYu island and Canton. A new edition of the book “A last look” was published in 2004. Their last and best collaboration was “Shanghai Art Deco”, 2006.

Her next project was a series of practical guide books about Old Shanghai, talking the shape of guided walks. Many of the experts on Old Shanghai collaborated to these books that are invaluable.

Although she was not originally from the city, Tess Johnston became the most knowledgeable person about Old Shanghai. She embodied it as much as people form the same generation who actually grew up in Shanghai like her friends Lynn Pan, Betty Bar, Rena Krasno and Sam Moshinsky. Although she did not grow up in Old Shanghai, it very much felt like she actually had.

Tess Johnston also used to give walking tour of Old Shanghai. I was lucky enough to take part to one in of those in 2012 (see post “Touring with a legend“). Aged 81 then, she was still full of energy and passion for the city, making this a memorable event as those tour became more and more rare. Although she left Shanghai a few years ago to go back to the US, her spirit never really left the city.

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